Morris Minor Owners Club

Just to clear up from the beginning, I am not technically minded or desperately confident with mechanical things but willing to learn, hence the naïve questions.
I bought a moggie (1967 2 door) in the summer and I now need to start servicing.

I have started to get round to the gearbox oil. I have located the rubber bung and the dipstick/bolt underneath.
However, when I have tried to remove the bolt (to top up) it is not budging.
Firstly, have I identified the correct part?
Secondly - how tight should it be (used a socket set and still no joy)?

Since I have your attention - Carburettor oil? Can this be 20/50 engine oil or does it have to be a different grade?
Many thanks

No rubber bung on the Minor gearbox.....??? Normally the fill plug unscrews (wheel brace size ) and you top up with engine oil - NOT gear oil. Ideally 10W40 for the box, but 20W50 will be ok. The carb - well it only needs a teaspoon or so - some perform better with 3 in 1 oil, others work better with engine oil. Try it and see! Make SURE when changing the oil filter that the steel plate and spring under the filter (inside the casing) don't get thrown out with the old oil. And of course - 20W50 in the engine - Morrisons/Wilko 20W50 oil is fine - just don't expect it to last 'for ever'. Change every 3000 miles -and then check/reset the valve gaps.

Thank you for your reply.
The bung is on the left of the gear stick and covers the hole below which sits the nut.
I have tried to loosen the nut using the wheel brace and a socket set but no joy. It is stuck fast which made me question whether I had the right nut.
The valve gaps ...
I think I will learn to walk first before I run!

Ah right - that bung in the floor cover.. Just use a longer lever then! Actually - may be a good idea to drain the gearbox - and refill with fresh oil. Check the old oil to see what else falls out of the box with the oil!

Don't go giving it too much stick, sounds like someone has over tightened it, only needs nipping up.

Get a kettle or two full of boiling water and pour it over the immediate area around the plug, the gearbox is aluminium and the plug steel, ally will expand more, quickly have another try and it may help it let go. You may need a funnel to direct the water where you want it.

No guarantee it will work but a bit of heat sometimes works wonders.

The filler plug and the drain plugs are tapered so you only need to nip them up. Don't remove the drain plug until you can get the filler plug out first!!

^^ Good advice !

Thank you - I will try that once I have fixed the radiator!
It split on me yesterday (previous owner had made a quick repair which failed in the cold)

Thank you for all your help.
In the end I had to resort to a hex head and a very long lever
(using the term "I" very loosely - meaning the person i got to do it after my failure)
All done - just the oil filter, sparks and air filter left to do.

Hi everyone

one simple question here - I'm keen to check my gearbox oil level too, but have an annoying problem in that the carpet around the gearbox has been glued down on top of some sort of felt all around the gearstick area. Now i don't want to make too much of a mess as it's quite tidy at the moment and don't want to rip (literally!) up to much of the area and was wondering if anyone could guide exactly where the filler is in relation to the stick? I've had a look at the workshop manual, but it gives a fairly abstract diagram with no relation to any other bits of the floorpan etc.

See picture below, rubber bung covering level plug not clear so highlighted with yellow.
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Hope this helps, sorry dont have access to do measurement.

fantastic! exactly what i needed - many thanks

It's also accessible from under the car, but very awkward. Getting the plug back in from above is awkward too - usually involves colourful language when I do it as I drop it under the car several times before getting it on the thread.

If it's all been glued down like that - I wonder when the oil level was last checked........or changed.

Monty-4 wrote:It's also accessible from under the car, but very awkward. Getting the plug back in from above is awkward too - usually involves colourful language when I do it as I drop it under the car several times before getting it on the thread.

Stick a bit of clean paper over and into the end of the socket, push the filler plug into the paper and that will grip the filler plug inside the socket so alleviating the dropsy syndrome.
Phil

As an aside to Phil's post above I use plastic insulation tape. Wipe the socket then get a length of tape and wrap it round the outside of the socket half way across the tapes width then fold the rest inside the socket. Being plastic it moulds to the shape of the nut nicely and holds it well and sticks to the socket so it won't come off at the crucial moment.

Insulation tape - that costs money

"Insulation tape - that costs money "

That's true I'll switch to newspaper

This plug being tapered can be deceiving. Sometimes if it tightens too soon it may be a sign of cross threading, as the actual alignment angle is difficult to see properly. Once located it's worth seeing if it screws in easy to start with.

i tend to put the tapered bolt in from under the car then just nip it up