Morris Minor Owners Club

Heya guys

So I have just bought my first traveller to add to the collection
I was wondering if anyone has any specific modifications that aid the traveller

Such as things to help the wood, are mudflaps good or do they just cause more problems?
Any window channel upgrades etc.

Thanks
Jordan

Make sure the channel drain holes are clear with a large needle.Try the search facility for wood care etc as there are lots of good tips .I wouldn't bother with mudflaps as crud gets trapped and causes problems .

irmscher wrote:Make sure the channel drain holes are clear with a large needle.Try the search facility for wood care etc as there are lots of good tips .I wouldn't bother with mudflaps as crud gets trapped and causes problems .

right ok I was tempted to renew the channels that the windows sit in is that possible whilst it's all still together?

Yes I was going to look deeper into wood care as I have had a look but just not made my my up yet

Oh right yeah that's what I thought. Would they work. Better with a cap between the flap and wood and maybe bring cleaned cconstantly
Thanks

Yes - fit short mud flaps behind the rear wheels - partly to keep the rear doors/windows clear - but also to protect the wood in that area.

Modern type rubber seals are available for side wind up windows which stop most of the water running down and rotting the bottoms of the front doors

You can change the channels in situ. I highly recommend Osmo Oil for the wood. I've fitted heated rear windows to mine.

Gas struts are available for the rear doors which stop the doors from slamming closed on a windy day or when parked on a downhill slope

bmcecosse wrote:Yes - fit short mud flaps behind the rear wheels - partly to keep the rear doors/windows clear - but also to protect the wood in that area.

How do you mean short flaps?
I've always loved the morris badged ones but I'm guessing their not short ones

mike.perry wrote:Modern type rubber seals are available for side wind up windows which stop most of the water running down and rotting the bottoms of the front doors

Ah yes I have them on Norma and will be fitting them on the traveller when I get round to it

Biggles1957 wrote:You can change the channels in situ. I highly recommend Osmo Oil for the wood. I've fitted heated rear windows to mine.

Ah well that's alright then that will get sorted when I go over the rest of the wood then
Yes I've been doing a lot of research on treatments and osmo is high on the list of possibilities
It will be sat outside and used all year round so need a good treatment that can deal with everything I'd be happy to sacrifice the wood colour for something that can deal with the weather though

mike.perry wrote:Gas struts are available for the rear doors which stop the doors from slamming closed on a windy day or when parked on a downhill slope

Oh really? Where abouts would they be available they may have to be fitted at some point if I get annoyed with them up on viewing the doors didn't stay open very well even on the flat

'Short flaps' - just long enough to protect the timber - not anything obtrusive - or with 'cheap' Minor logo...... But each to their own... I think most behind will be aware it's a Minor - without the need for nasty 'named' flaps. And - it's really really not a good idea to keep a Traveller outside. Try to get it under a lean-to at very least if you can't find a nice dry garage.

bmcecosse wrote:'Short flaps' - just long enough to protect the timber - not anything obtrusive - or with 'cheap' Minor logo...... But each to their own... It think most behind will be aware it's a Minor - without the need for nasty 'named' flaps.

Ah right ok
I know I know the colouring rubs of so easily but always have loved them
I may have a good look into it all once I've got it going nicely as it needs a few more important things done first

Osmo is excellent, and only slightly darkens the ash, but make sure the wood has been stripped and thoroughly soaked in Cuprinol 5 first.

panky wrote:Osmo is excellent, and only slightly darkens the ash, but make sure the wood has been stripped and thoroughly soaked in Cuprinol 5 first.

Ah ok seems like it's moving higher up the list does it have to be applied on dry wood? And I sure will the wood seems to have really awful varnish on there and Seems to have sealant of sort in the corners so want to get that off once the engine is.is sorted lol

The gas struts were available from David Manners Group, see back of Minor Matters

Hello,
Not meaning to disrupt this thread but where can you buy the rubber seals for the wind-up windows please?
There is also mention that they can be fitted with window etc. in situ?
Many kind thanks - and a Happy New Year
Sue

I used a Skarsten scraper to remove the old varnish on mine. You can get them in different sizes and I think it's a lot safer than taking a sander close to the bodywork - one slip and you've sanded the paint. The scraper leaves a really smooth finish. You need the UV resistant Osmo and it hardly colours the ash. Looks brilliant and breathes. Water just beads up on it. I gave my bare wood a couple of coats several years ago now and it's still great. Granted Monty lives in a garage but he was my daily transport in all weather's including over the bad winter a few years back, and parked outside at work all day of course. In my humble opinion, Osmo is the best treatment and easy to apply. It doesn't attract dust either.
I made sure the sealant between the wood and metal was all good as well. Stixall comes in a few colours, but I used black and applied it with a syringe where necessary. It cleans up easily, and with a syringe you can force it into small cracks and crevices. It sets like an EDPM rubber and looks like dum-dum when done and stays flexible. You can put the Osmo over it. I also got Stixall well into the wood joints where there were some small cracks. It also bonds almost anything to anything so is very useful for all sorts of things! Hope you find this helpful!

Those scrapers would be perfect but I used wood chisels and back scraped the frame, chisels need to be really sharp though. The wood does need to be dry to apply the Osmo, it's a surface treatment so the surface needs to be good for it to adhere.

mike.perry wrote:The gas struts were available from David Manners Group, see back of Minor Matters

Ah right ok ill have a big look around at all the suppliers to see what they do f the travellers as I did with the saloons
Will be collecting the car tomorrow very excited but nervous at the same time won't be able to go over 40mph