Morris Minor Owners Club

Hi,
I've got a few questions, not all of which belong in 'Mechanical' but I didn't think it was worth making several threads. Firstly, I've now done 500 miles with my new engine so it's time to change the oil. How close to 500 miles does the oil change have to be done? I ask because I probably won't be able to do it for a week and obviously I'll clock up a few more miles in that time. Secondly, my throttle is sticking slightly, it doesn't return to idle properly unless you push the pedal back up from underneath. It's not really revving up but it's above normal idle. It doesn't seem to do it when it's revved from under the bonnet, only on the pedal. I suspect that the spring needs replacing but I was wondering if there were any other possibilities. Finally, I keep getting water in my car behind the drivers seat. It's under the carpet and I can't work out where it's coming from. I keep drying it up then sticking some crystal cat litter on it to try and keep it dry but it keeps coming back. I lifted up the carpet from the transmission tunnel side earlier today and found that there is a circular hole, about half an inch in diameter, in the floor near the tunnel. Is this supposed to be there? I thought this could be the source of the water, coming up when I drive through water.

Thanks,
James

A few extra miles wont make a difference for the oil change.The hole could be a seat belt stalk mount, put a bit of duct tape over it and see what happens. The water could be coming in through the sliding windows, it does on my traveller a little so I mop it up off the rubber heel mat every now and then - luckily it only sits on the surface and doesn't get underneath. The throttle sticking could well be down to a weak spring (easy and cheap to check) or the cable itself binding or kinked, but try a spot of oil on all the linkages first.

Second all the above - even 1000 mile oil change won't be a problem - it's just a 'guide'. And no - no holes in the floor. Put a rubber bung in it. Throttle - perhaps the cable is set too tight - there should be a little 'free play' at the pedal, but of course also check you are getting full throttle when the pedal is on the floor. Equally - make sure you the carb is not at 'full throttle' BEFORE the pedal hits the floor - there is no surer way to have a broken cable....

I would check the inner part of the cable in case some of the strands are breaking up, the broken strands can cause it to stick in the outer cable.

James, is the return spring tight enough to pull the cable back to idle? Did you connect it back in the same place after replacing the engine?

Take carpets out if you are using car in winter, far better to see the problem and they won't hold water which will rust your floors. What purpose do carpets in a car serve anyway.....

I don't have carpets in mine and it's a garage queen which never sees bad weather and only sees summer use.

I also don't have them in my wrangler either as it leaks so I Just took them out, this is always preferable to wet carpets in any vehicle.

Al

I'm in the middle of repairing the driver side B post on my traveller. Pockets of rust at the junction with the roof and around the lock striker (and a lot more at the rear floor) point to penetration through the T rubber, so I'd have a good look at that. I'm assuming from other replies that it is a Trav.

Tightening the spring is certainly a possibility - IF the throttle is very light underfoot. But driving a car with a heavy throttle is not a pleasant experience - so I suggest check all other possibilities (including the frayed strands) first. An extra long cable with a nice easy sweep to the carb helps too - I know some folk use bicycle brake cable for this, but whatever you use - be sure to have spare that is KNOWN to fit in the car at all times -and enough tools to be able to fit it.... A spare return spring is a 'good idea' too - a broken spring with the throttle suddenly going full open can be quite exciting....

Thanks for all the replies! I've just taken out the carpet, dried it all out and put the seat back in. I had a good poke around with a screwdriver and there's no serious rust luckily. It could do with a clean up and some new paint though since there is surface rust. The jute matting under the carpet was absolutely soaking, a large puddle of water has collected under it where I've hung it up to dry! I'm going to drive it without the carpet until I work out where the water is coming from. I've oiled all the carb linkages and tightened the spring slightly so I'll see how that goes. I don't think the water is coming from above since since it's all under the carpet, there's none on top.

Thanks,
James

I don't think the water is coming from above since since it's all under the carpet, there's none on top.

On mine the water was tracking down the inside of the B post from the T rubber (or possibly the gutter at the top of the B post), so not showing itself until it soaked the carpet and rotted the floor (before my ownership....). I think the water made it through to the floor via the seam between the floor extension and the sill step, as this was badly corroded.

I think that may be the case Mark since the water is emerging from around the bottom of the b post. The T rubber is also about 1/4" short of the edge so it's probably getting in there. The wood by the b post has got rot in a couple of places so will need replacing anyway, I just wonder what horrors await behind it!

I've done the oil change now (at about 650 miles), it came out pretty black and there was a fair bit of metal swarf stuck to the magnetic sump plug. Do I need to do another oil change any time soon or is it straight onto 3000 mile intervals now?

Thanks,
James

I put a new accelerator spring in this evening and that's solved the problem of the throttle sticking. I've just got to adjust it as the pedal is now too heavy which makes it extremely annoying to drive, it feels like the car has no power! I think I've found the leak, a gap in the T rubber, but I'm not certain. I've blocked it up temporarily so I can see if the water still gets in.

Another small problem I've got is that the engine makes a tapping sound when cold. It's coming from the back of the rocker box so I was sure that it was a loose tappet but I've checked the clearances and they're all fine. The noise disappears when the engine has warmed up. Any ideas?

I warned you about the heavy spring! You sure you haven't fitted a clutch return spring ? If it's too heavy it will eventually snap the cable.... Takes time for oil to get along the rocker shaft....

I thought I'd checked if it was too heavy when I fitted it but it feels a lot heavier when you're driving than when you're just revving it stationary. I've adjusted it now but it's still a bit too heavy. The tab on the exhaust clamp is all the way up so I don't know how to make it any lighter. Is there any other adjustment that can be made.

I just narrowly avoided destroying the car too. I brought out two spanners with me because I wasn't sure about the size and forgot that I'd left one on top of the battery. After I'd driven around the block I remembered, opened the bonnet and found it stuck across the terminals, sparking and smoking! I managed to get it off by hitting it with the plastic torch I was holding. Am I likely the have damaged the battery? The spanner was certainly very burnt! I won't be putting any spanners on top of the battery any more!

Close thing! I suspect you have a clutch spring - buy a throttle spring - or refit the original....

I'm pretty sure it's an accelerator spring, I checked it against the old one but will do again tomorrow. It looks like the second one down here: . I also fitted a clutch spring recently and that looked like the bottom one in the picture. It's not horrendously stiff but it needs to be lighter. It really makes me feel like the car has no power

Looks right enough then...

Is the anchor bracket attached to the clamp on the manifold? or is it positioned somewhere else, just wondering if the spring has been over-stretched