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Seized motor advice
Posted: Fri Feb 25, 2005 7:07 pm
by bigginger
Tried to turn over an old 1098 engine yesterday (by hand and with the starter motor - it's out not in a car BTW) to find it was seized. The head's off, and the problem seems to be No. 4 cylinder, rusty stains on the cylinder wall. Just now it's in the shed with penetrating oil in the bores for the night, having had the bore walls scoured with a wire brush and drill. The question - if I clean out the cylinders with a hoover and a large magnet to catch bits of metal. am I going to cause massive damage (if I free it) by simply putting it back together? I'm not desperately interested in longevity, the hope is to run it while I rebuild the 1275 properly, and I'd sooner not rebuild this one too. Any 'seized engine' advice gratefully received... I've only ever freed up an MZ125 before, and there's a few more parts on a Morry engine!
Posted: Fri Feb 25, 2005 7:20 pm
by Alec
Hello Andrew,
I'm sure you will be able to free the engine OK, and I wouldn't be overly concerned about the debris as it will blow out of the exhaust. Once the bores are rusty, the rings will not seal so well unless they were honed smooth again. As it is a short term engine I would anticipate no problems running it for a while as long as the crank is reasonably sound.
Alec
Posted: Fri Feb 25, 2005 7:49 pm
by bigginger
Great - it was running until 7 or 8 months ago, so fingers crossed... That'll teach me to turn them over while they're out of the car.
Re: Seized motor advice
Posted: Fri Feb 25, 2005 8:14 pm
by Multiphonikks
bigginger wrote:Tried to turn over an old 1098 engine yesterday (by hand and with the starter motor - it's out not in a car BTW) to find it was seized. The head's off, and the problem seems to be No. 4 cylinder, rusty stains on the cylinder wall. Just now it's in the shed with penetrating oil in the bores for the night, having had the bore walls scoured with a wire brush and drill. The question - if I clean out the cylinders with a hoover and a large magnet to catch bits of metal. am I going to cause massive damage (if I free it) by simply putting it back together? I'm not desperately interested in longevity, the hope is to run it while I rebuild the 1275 properly, and I'd sooner not rebuild this one too. Any 'seized engine' advice gratefully received... I've only ever freed up an MZ125 before, and there's a few more parts on a Morry engine!
See - Kate knows about MZ engines seizing up...
Posted: Fri Feb 25, 2005 8:27 pm
by turbominor
When i last had a siezed engine i poored good old Coka Cola in the bores and a few days later it was nice and shiny and i was able to turn it over.
Other i used on farm stuff was 50/50 diesel and creasote (not sure if it is spelt like that..
thinking about it sure a bit of jennolite on the piston would also remove the rust
Posted: Fri Feb 25, 2005 9:08 pm
by bigginger
Coke eh? Good call - I'll try it if penatrating oil doesn't shift it.
Posted: Fri Feb 25, 2005 9:56 pm
by guydenning
bigginger wrote:Coke eh? Good call - I'll try it if penatrating oil doesn't shift it.
to be honest penetrating oil probably tastes better too.
BARMAN! make mine a rum and holts please...
and a packet of sudan 1 crispies please...

Posted: Fri Feb 25, 2005 9:57 pm
by turbominor
Coke eh? Good call - I'll try it if penatrating oil doesn't shift it
works well on old rusty tools and did wanders on the rear brake caliper on my old golf gti when it siezed up
Posted: Fri Feb 25, 2005 10:00 pm
by Chris Morley
and a packet of sudan 1 crispies please...
Mmm - those sudan 1 flavoured crisps will grow on you - quite literally!

Posted: Sat Feb 26, 2005 1:15 pm
by bigginger
Well, penetrating oil for 12 hours, a block of wood and a trusty rubber Birmingham Screwdriver did the trick. Cheers for your thoughts.
Posted: Sun Feb 27, 2005 7:03 pm
by bmcecosse
The rings may be seized on the pistons - I suggest you soak it all in diesel for as long as you can, which seems to be able to free off stuck rings.