Wonder if anyone can confirm that the oil pump cover should be soldered to the engine back plate as per the workshop manual instructions?
On removing the backplate from my engine (1098cc) the pump cover was loose and only appears to have been 'secured'/sealed with some sort of silicone sealant, but also with no apparent evidence of it ever previously being soldered from new - you will be aware that this seal prevents oil entering the clutch housing.
No - not soldered - and no need for sealant either. It should be a snug fit though. There is a drain hole below the pump and any oil (where from?) will drain through there. Of course on a seriously worn engine - fume will be pushed up through the drain hole and may I suppose escape around the backplate dish - but the real answer then is to sort out the reason for the fume....
Jayen
The reference to re-soldering the oil pump cover in the wksp manual section AA33 only applies to the thin plate 803cc/948cc engine back plates with the rolled return at their edges. Those plates were soldered from new as the thinner plate is and can be subject to distortion so allowing oil to seep past.
As bmc says above - the 1098cc oil pump cover should be a good fit into the thicker flat 1098cc (and 1275cc) rear engine plate(s) and should require no sealant to be applied between the cover and back plate.
The rear engine plate gasket is all that is required to seal the joint between the pump cover and the rear face of the block.
Replace the oil pump and rear engine plate gaskets and all should be well.
I always smear the gaskets with a covering of grease as I find it helps the gasket bedding in and tightening process.
Also as bmc says make sure that the drain hole from the pump housing to the sump is clear.
Phil
