Morris Minor Owners Club

What's involved in doing away with the trunnion set-up, and fitting shock absorbers on the front? Is there a kit, and what's the cost likely to be?

There is a kit to add 'proper' shocks at the front, involving either clamping a bracket to the lower arm or buying an arm with one welded on to which the bottom of the shock attaches, and welding one to the flitch either side for the top. That still leaves the trunnions though - I know someone offers a double wishbone set up, which I guess loses them, somebody'll know more about that, and JLH seemed to be rumouring he was going to start doing a chassis with that set up, so may know more about just the suspension. See Cam's pages (linked in his sig) for pictures of the shock set up.

As yet there is no commercially available kit to do away with the swivel pin or trunnions. Why do you need to eliminate the trunnions? they work extreamly well if kept in good condition and we have yet to see any failure in their performance, or longevity even when thrashed around the race track with a 190bhp motor, and fat sticky tyres. As bigginger says there are two basic ways to fit a quality damper, the most prevalent is the kit offered by MMC Bath, It is difficult for me to express an opinoin on this kit, but personally I think you can do better. One thing to remember is that a damper will place stresses on its location points, this requires the correct strengthening of these areas. We always weld panels or locating pins as we feel this to be the best engineering solution. Make sure that the dampers you use have the correct amount of travel, i.e do not bottom out before you hit the bump stop. This has been known!!!. Each manufacturer of respective damper kits should supply a detailed fitting brief. An alternative to the standard damper fitting is our coil-over shock kit which does away with the torsion bars and replaces it and the bottom arms with a wide A arm which is located to a bespoke chassis bracket. The coil unit
is bolted to the A arm and to a specially constructed top bracket. The kit is adjustable for all geometry settings. The beauty of this kit is its finite set up, in ride height,spring rate, and damper settings. The difference between this set up and the standard damper upgrade is massive, with amazing levels of grip and although a firmer ride, control over poor surfaces etc is unbeatable.
Remember though if you are adding front suspension mods to also do the rear, as the car should be seen as a whole entity for the correct balance
of a system.
Bigginger has also alluded to the fact that we are to release a full chassis
with double wishbones throughout, this should be available at the tail end of this year. It will also accept most V8 V6 and all four cylinder engines.
If you require more info on suspension design or set up please do so via PM's unless the site moderators will allow a calculated response to further questions?.

Dont forget Jojax that if upgrading the shockers the rear should be done 1st.

jonathon wrote:If you require more info on suspension design or set up please do so via PM's unless the site moderators will allow a calculated response to further questions?.

unless the site moderators will allow a calculated response to further questions?.

Jonathon, if you're sitting at your computer replying to questions that have been asked & giving free advice to other Minor enthusiasts then I personally don't see any problem. However if you express an opinion on another supplier's parts then that may elicit a response from them.....

Chris, thanks for outlining the protocol, I'll do my best!!!!

Adding additional dampers to the front suspension is easy - and makes a huge difference to the car. It also has the advantage of securing the lower arm in such a way that it will no longer be able to come adrift from the trunnion. I hasten to add my trunnions are in excellent shape (the car ones are good too) but the damper gives some extra security. The lever dampers can also have the valves adjusted up - and mine are filled with thicker oil. A little negative camber on the front wheels helps the cornering no end too !

The lever dampers can also have the valves adjusted up - and mine are filled with thicker oil.

That is an absoute no no as the levers can fail completly when used with a heavier oil with disasterous concequences and has been mentioned oh here before, and how do you adjust the valves ?
And the replacement ones are not extra ones but become the main dampers.

Kevin wrote:

The lever dampers can also have the valves adjusted up - and mine are filled with thicker oil.

That is an absoute no no as the levers can fail completly when used with a heavier oil with disasterous concequences and has been mentioned oh here before, and how do you adjust the valves ?
And the replacement ones are not extra ones but become the main dampers.

Yes, when putting the replacement dampers on, the valve is removed from the lever-arm dampers so they just act as a suspension top arm.

I suppose if you wanted to 'adjust' the valves then you would have to fit a stronger spring to the 'valve'.

Indeed - you can adjust up the little springs and fit additional shim washers. I'm not totally convinced it makes much difference. The thicker oil makes a big difference - and I use them WITH a very large pair of telescopic dampers attached to the lower arms and to the inner wings. Have had no problems now for 3 years running - and the damping is superb. I also used the thick oil + tele dampers many years ago when I rallied a Minor - had no problems then either ! I suppose if the original dampers are knackered, then thick oil will not help - but with good dampers it makes a wonderful difference!