Rust found - how to eliminate?

[Minor-Bramsche]

Hi there,

while I am waiting the next three weeks for my new wiring loom getting from Autosparks I thought can I use the time wisely to install seat belts for the front passengers. Quick removed the kick plates to look for a suitable place for the nuts - what I've found? nice Rust I have not done a look on the left side ... it will be the same I think.

Whats the best way to get it clean and safe for the future? It´s not the best place to work on ... but I have to stop it now!

May someone give me the best way to do?

Thanks and Bye

Dirk[frame][/frame][frame][/frame][frame][/frame][frame][/frame][frame][/frame]

[Mark Wilson]

From the pics it looks like you've still fairly sound metaleft. As you say difficult to reach, but you need to get as much of the area behind the boxing plate as you can get to back to bare metal, using wire brushes on flexi shafts, powerfiles, dremels, anything you can get in there. Treat any remaining rust with Jenolite or whatever treatment you prefer, then spray in zinc primer and topcoat, then waxoyl. If you find anything worse you will need to cut the boxing plate to get new metal in, but I hope it doesn't come to that.

Good luck!

[andy.pointeer]

Hi, going back to original seatbelt fixings. If you look at your third picture with the square hole, you can see the nut for the bottom fixing of the seat belt on the left of the hole. Not clear what model you have but there should also be a hole on the top half of the 'b' pillar for the top fixing.

[ManyMinors]

The pictures clearly show this is an early car which would not have any seatbelt mounting fitted at the factory - hence the need to remove the kick plates I guess?

It's a long time since I've seen inner sills as rust free as those I would simply spray the whole area with a good quality rust preventative wax and put it all back together again but there can be no harm in painting first. Using a good bare metal primer will be vital.

[biomed32uk]

Looks like somehting has been sprayed around before but not very much of it.

I would spray that with something like FE123 or Dinitrol rust converter, these are seam seeking rust converters - let it dry and then fill the area full of Dinitrol cavity wax or Bilt Hamber Dynax, and I mean fill. Dripping out of mine for about 2 days after I did it.

Whats it like underneath, regular wax injection and spraying is an essential job.

[bmcecosse]

Nothing wrong with WaxOyl - mix it with some white spirit - heat it in a bucket of v hot water - and spray it in on a hot sunny day (maybe hard to find now - but do your best). And yes - it will drip everywhere!

[chickenjohn]

I thought from your post the sills would be a disaster! But from the pics really that is just light surface rust.

Would not advise using a "converter" they are basically rubbish and only convert the top layer leaving rust to fester underneath. It looks like someone has applied cavity wax to the sills, so any paint isn't going to stick without thoroughly degreasing the area, not easy to do with a complete box section structure, so I would advise applying a good cavity wax to the area, such as Dynax or Dinitrol 3125. Those will prevent the surface rust from getting any worse.

[Minor-Bramsche]

Hi there,

so job is done! First I cleaned the area of loose dirt and rust, after it I used a degreaser and then a wire brush on the Dremel to get bare metall. After that, I covered the area with JENOLITE Rust Converter.
The next day, covered with 99% zinc spray.
Finally, there was a top layer of "Mike Sanders" Anti-Corrosion Grease "- heated to 120 ° C and flooded the sill with the pressure cup gun and a probe.
Next week I go to the left side and do the same. I hope that will protect against new rust!

Reagrds from Germany

Dirk[frame][/frame][frame][/frame][frame][/frame][frame][/frame]

[SteveClem]

Should do a good job!

[stag36587]

Perfect!