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Damper arm/pivot pin issue

Posted: Sun Oct 18, 2015 5:46 pm
by swampy42
I'm finally putting the front suspension back and have possibly a bit of an issue. Hoping someone more knowledgable than me can shed some light.
The damper arm in attached to the pivot pin and tightened with a castellated nut. The manual is telling me to leave a gap of 0.002 inch between the upper swivel pin link and the pivot. However, I'm not able to close the gap to less than about 3 or 4 mm at the moment and wonder if the pivot pin I have is the correct one for the car? Can anyone tell me if the pivot pin has changed over the years? The car is a 68 Traveller, but the part I'm using is from a load of spare stuff I got with a 56 minor.
If not, is there any other reason it might be so difficult to get onto the pivot pin? Before anyone asks, I haven't painted the inside of the damper arm. Pic attached.
Thanks in advance
Russ[frame]Image[/frame]

Re: Damper arm/pivot pin issue

Posted: Sun Oct 18, 2015 5:50 pm
by aupickup
don't worry about the gap just do it up and all will be fine

Re: Damper arm/pivot pin issue

Posted: Sun Oct 18, 2015 6:33 pm
by philthehill
The 0.002" relates to the earlier threaded top link pin (Pt No: 135103) and which was superseded by the special top links (Pt Nos 183602 & 183603) and top link pins (Pt No: 183424)(MOSS Pt No: AAA3653) as shown in your photo above.
See BMC wksp manual Section K13 for details.
As aupickup states above - do it up as per section K13 but leave the final tightening of the nut (MOSS Pt No: FNZ508)(secured by locking tab washer (MOSS Pt No: ACA5277) when the car is down on it wheels and having pressed/bounced the suspension up and down a few times.

Re: Damper arm/pivot pin issue

Posted: Sun Oct 18, 2015 7:13 pm
by bmcecosse
You would be FAR better to use polyurethane bushes in that link - they make a huge difference there. And yes - just tighten it all up after the weight is on the suspension - or stick a jack under the lower arm and crank it up to get the same effect.

Re: Damper arm/pivot pin issue

Posted: Sun Oct 18, 2015 9:21 pm
by swampy42
Thanks all for the help - I had completely missed that K13 section.
I've only just bought these rubber bushes - excuse my ignorance, but how are Polyurethane better? I'm happy to be get what's best, so can update them next time I do a parts order, if necessary.

Thanks again
Russ

Re: Damper arm/pivot pin issue

Posted: Sun Oct 18, 2015 9:44 pm
by philthehill
Polyurethane bushes fitted to the front suspension are better for the following reasons:-

They are firmer so do not distort and so retain the right steering geometry for longer, their wear qualities are better than the original rubber bushes as fitted by BMC.

When fitting I always smear a dab of grease on the poly bush pivot points.
Whilst some people say that grease should not be used it has never done my poly bushes any harm and in some applications the manufacturer advises fitting with a smear of grease.
I go even further and fit grease nipples so that the poly bush pivot points never get dry.
Phil[frame]Image[/frame]

Re: Damper arm/pivot pin issue

Posted: Mon Oct 19, 2015 8:45 am
by swampy42
Poly it is then. Many thanks

Re: Damper arm/pivot pin issue

Posted: Mon Oct 19, 2015 2:43 pm
by bmcecosse
Especially on that top mount - they do a much better job than the rubber ones - which may not last long anyway - there are a lot of 'rubbish' rubber bushes out there!