Morris Minor Owners Club

Hi what is the best way to overhall the rear dampers my car seems to be tooo bouncy at the rear end like a pogo stick so i removed one to replace the oil did that now it wont work at all got rid of all the air still no joy Help!
thanks.

What do you mean that "it won't work" ?
Have you tried it on the car ?
How did you change the oil ?

PSL184 wrote:What do you mean that "it won't work" ?
Have you tried it on the car ?
How did you change the oil ?

hi i removed unit from car drained all old oil out which was a (blackish colour presumed old) put unit in vice filled back up with new but now sometimes it locks up in the middle of the travel and sometimes no damping at all have not tried it on the car but in the vice

Have you filled it to the very top? If you did then there is no room in the damper to displace the oil from each piston. You need to fill it in the orientation it bolts on the car just until oil starts to dribble out of the filler plug.

Trickydicky wrote:Have you filled it to the very top? If you did then there is no room in the damper to displace the oil from each piston. You need to fill it in the orientation it bolts on the car just until oil starts to dribble out of the filler plug.

hi ok have done that now i have 3 1/2 inches overall of dampened movement does that sound about right?
thanks.

The movement sounds right though I have never measured the travel.
What grade of oil did you use? SAE40 is the best grade to use. You can get some from Machine Mart, it's sold as compressor oil.

Trickydicky wrote:The movement sounds right though I have never measured the travel.
What grade of oil did you use? SAE40 is the best grade to use. You can get some from Machine Mart, it's sold as compressor oil.

thats just what i used
thanks for your help ill do the other side damper tomorrow now as its getting a bit late
hope it stops it bouncing on the rear end its all these speed bumps they keep putting down they just dont think of us!!!

As long as the dampers are not leaking - the SAE 40- will make a huge improvement. While in there - make sure the bump stops are present and correct. For more pliable suspension - you can afford to cut an inch off each bump stop.

bmcecosse wrote:As long as the dampers are not leaking - the SAE 40- will make a huge improvement. While in there - make sure the bump stops are present and correct. For more pliable suspension - you can afford to cut an inch off each bump stop.

ok thanks ill check those in the morning.

Make sure you use SAE 40 - and not 10W/40....

ok theres something definetly wrong with these dampers one travels twice as far as the other? think i need to look around for a second hand pair and try those to see which is right and which is wrong.

Hi does anyone have an exploded view of a rear damper for morris minor
or is there one on site?
thanks.

Here's a link to the thread I posted on damper repair a few years back but you need access to some special equipment. My mate has all the equipment we need.
http://www.mmoc.org.uk/viewtopic.php?f= ... per+Repair
We now have a source for the seals (including inner piston seal) and plugs required for the rears and tested these about four weeks ago-no problem.
Exchange dampers are cheap enough but postage is high. It is not really worth repairing them as long as exchange ones are available unless you need the challenge.

Regards
Declan

Only moving half way is a bit odd - is that even with the valve assembly removed? Sounds like something very broken internally - although hard to imagine what...

The only part that could have broken to cause them to lock up would be the "bottom end" of the connecting rods which pivots on the arm have broken, they then have moved out of place and are jammed.
Take the top off and post a pick, I am intrigued to see the cause

heres a few pics

strange cant see links to pics?[frame][/frame][frame][/frame][frame][/frame][frame][/frame]
one of the pistons dosent seem to be connected ? is that right? on the last two pics you can see half the bigend down the bottom


thyats better

Hi, on the second pic you can clearly see the link is broken and missing causing the arm to jam., the shiny bit is the pin. (Its just like a con rod on a engine piston)

Recon damper I am afraid

Trickydicky wrote:Hi, on the second pic you can clearly see the link is broken and missing causing the arm to jam., the shiny bit is the pin. (Its just like a con rod on a engine piston)

Recon damper I am afraid

ahh didn't think it looked right ill take the other off tomorrow and inspect that one,
funny I cant find the missing bit to it should have been in there I would have thought,
thanks for that more expense

To be honest buying recon 2nd hand ones you may find those leak too, I know these are more expensive http://morrisminorspares.co.uk/shop/pro ... 901cbd2a13
but they are new and uprated.