Morris Minor Owners Club

Hello everyone,
I have read a lot of posts re: steering wheel removal.
My neighbour has managed to remove the nut using a large socket - no hammer and chisel ;-)
We have replaced it a couple of turns in case the steering wheel comes off suddenly.
Steering wheel won't budge. We have hit it from below with a rubber mallet.
It's a 1960 early traveller 948cc engine.
Anyone have any helpful tips please as I need to get to the indicator mechanism as the left hand indicator is a bit sensitive.
Many kind thanks
Sue

I suppose you've tried both hands on the wheel and rocking whilst pulling? Ten out of ten for using a socket!

Hi Sue
The wheel is fitted on a spline and unless you have a puller the best way to remove it is to use the rubber mallet under alternate sides so you impart a rocking force on it. You have done the right thing putting the nut back on. While one holds the wheel up tight the other person should place a drift in the middle of the stub and give it a smart blow, this sometimes jars it enough to loosen it. Careful with the drift so as not to damage the thread on the stub. Good luck.

Many thanks for the replies
My neighbour and I will tackle again - when the drizzle stops.
So close and yet so far ;-)
It probably hasn't been removed in many years ;-)

The nut needs to be loose - and a block of timber and a heavy hammer will do better than a wee rubber mallet.

worth dribbing a bit of light oil around any visible spline ends?

I have dropped oil onto the visible splines - hopefully soaking through nicely
Block of timber - where should this be placed please?
And then a smart whack with a heavier hammer on the wood?
I'm mindful of the the wheel - the banjo style - which already has a couple of cracks where the wires meet the outer wheel - before I started removal attempt I hasten to add

Worth buying a three legged puller if all else fails - you can always resell it after use or keep it in your tool kit.

My dribbling oil seems to have had zero impact.
So, 3 leg puller - they seem to have a centre point which is what the 3 legs 'pull' against?
The centre is the little spring thing for my horn - do I have to have something that covers it but also sits on the nut?
Appreciate suggestions - many thanks
Sue

I've had an idea which I think will work - offered up the freshly acquired 3 legged puller - too short.
Have to return it tomorrow and get the bigger one whilst ensuring that the little feet will be the same size otherwise they won't fit.
Hey ho, I'll see what tomorrow brings .... Lots of cups of tea I think .... and deep breaths

Have you tried swearing at it?

Ha ha Mike
I have tried sweet talking and a few expletives too - reckon the latter made me feel a bit better
I am confident - ok, desperately hopeful - that when I get the puller to fit all should be well.
Rather pleased with my smaller socket blu-tacked to the lightly screwed nut and a flat spanner on top so the puller has something to press against ..... not my horn button which is safely protected
Cheers
Sue

The puller will crack the wheel..hit the hub with a heavy hammer - with a block of timber to protect the plastic... Do you REALLY need the wheel off to get at the indicator?????

How about removing the complete steering column from the floor ?

A nice piece of hardwood behind the central boss of the wheel and hit the wood with a large lump hammer, not very hard as you just need to shock it, turn the wheel 180deg and hit again and it will eventually move. Try a very thin oil / WD on the splines as it will help. Don't hit it harder if it doesn't move as you just need a firm sharp shock either side in turn and it will go eventually.

The problem with a plain block of wood is that it bears on just one part of the circumference. So the rocking motion it imparts just tends to tighten up the opposite side. I reckon it's worth making up a split end drift; almost like a large open-ended spanner, or tuning fork. That should equalise the impact. Or even find a really large spanner!
Remember to leave the nut on by a turn for this first phase. Otherwise the wheel will ricochet round the cabin!
I was lucky; mine came off with light hammer tapping and a wiggle.

Do NOT hammer the rim of the wheel - with or without timber! The hammering - with wood - must be on the HUB !!

I believe I do need to remove the steering wheel as I'm trying to get to the indicator mechanism.
My left hand indicators do come on but the indicators talk has to be in certain position for it to engage and work.
No such problem with the right hand indicator.
Undoing the indicator cover does not appear to give enough room to get to the indicator stalk itself where it joins the wheel.

If there is an alternative - I'm all ears as I am mindful about the age of the banjo wheel etc.

Many continued thanks
Sue

I've played and now know when indicator left will work.
I'm just going to use it as is - it's a little 'feature' - she's an old car and allowed them
Many kind thanks for the helpful advice which I shall refer to if I have to remove the steering wheel down the road - hopefully no time soon
Kindly
Sue

These symptoms are of a dirty contact, rather than a wiring fault. The contact studs are not enclosed like on a modern switch, so can easily get crudded up over the years. As you can't get to them to wipe them with emery paper, I'd try squirting contact cleaner (eg Maplin's N61AN) up from underneath into the whole assembly, all the time working the switch back and forth to work the cleaner over the contacts. OK, it's not very targetted, but the stuff all evaporates anyway. But you might want to wrap some rags around and under the area to stop it reaching upholstery or clothing, just in case.
Obviously don't use WD40; that's different stuff, and will add to your problems!
Hopefully this will clean and extend the "sweet spot" you've already found.