Morris Minor Owners Club

I am attempting to remove the clutch pedal/brake pedal as part of gaining access to the brake master cylinder on my MM Traveller 1963. I have successfully achieved getting the brake pedal to move independently from the clutch pedal using WD40. It also has a small of free sideways movement. I have removed the nut (is this supposed to be split pinned) and washer on the end of the clutch pedal shaft. The clutch pedal moves freely but refuses to move towards the gear box. I have tried tapping the end with the nut replaced but no joy. The workshop manual indicates the spacer between the brake pedal and the frame is a separate item but mine seem to be part of the brake pedal or are they just corroded together. Any tips on freeing/extracting the clutch shaft. I do not really want to cut it out.


Pete B

You don't need to remove the pedals to get at the master cylinder - if that is the aim. As long as the pedals are moving freely - I would oil up and leave well alone !

Thank you for that. I have had a further look and it seems that the brake pedal spacer is 'stuck' to the clutch shaft. I have oiled again and will allow to soak. The main object, apart from getting the master cylinder out, was to clean out the box section, de-rust and apply a protective coat. The rust is not affecting the structural integrity but needs sorting and it would be a lot easier with the clutch shaft out of the way. I will have to see how it goes. There is plenty of other jobs to be getting on with whilst it is soaking.

Pete B

if not cut the spacer off i had to on a van i had

The nut on the end of the clutch pedal shaft was originally a castellated nut with split pin but the after-market/repro versions tend to use a self locking nut.
Use a proper release oil i.e. Plus Gas which is excellent.

You have, of course, removed the linkage attached to the pedal? Most likely simply the spacer stuck to the shaft. As above, use Plus Gas, but then some large grips to hold the spacer whilst you move the pedal up and down to try and free the whole assembly.

When you have it all free and removed fit a grease nipple to the brake pedal.[frame][/frame]

I have also seen the shaft drilled from the nut end almost to the other, with cross ways drilled under the pedal and spacer. This allows a grease nipple to be fitted inside the nut and thus possibly easier access than when on the pedal. This really needs to be done in a lathe before the shaft is welded to the clutch pedal.

Better if drilled from the inner end as drilling through the nut end leaves very little if any metal for the nut threads.

Thank you all for the advice and suggestions. I have now successfully removed the clutch pedal by firstly using mole grips on the spacer (after soaking in penetrating oil) but no joy. I then carefully drilled the spacer, in a number of places, to a depth just to break through too the clutch shaft. Further applications of oil and some thumps with a cold chisel against the drilled holes achieved the required result.

On removal it was seen the the clutch shaft was significantly waisted in the brake pedal position and the the end of the shaft was drilled for a split pin but was not present. Equally the threads were very worn. If I can find a clutch shaft in a better condition I will buy it. Also of note - is the spacer supposed to be phosphor bronze this one was steel?


Pete B

Well done.
The spacer is supposed to be steel.
It is not unusual for the brake pedal to waste the clutch pedal shaft and that is why it is always better to fit a grease nipple to at least the brake pedal and even better if you can fit one to the clutch pedal shaft.
The clutch pedal shaft bushes in the chassis are nearly all found to be serviceable.
Plaster everything with grease when reassembling.

Phil

new pedal

http://morrisminorspares.co.uk/shop/pro ... 47ec038126

spacer

http://morrisminorspares.co.uk/shop/pro ... 47ec038126

It may also be worth renewing the bronze bushed while it is all stripped down. Puts lots of copper grease on the new one when re assembling.