Morris Minor Owners Club

Got my moggy lola a 1970 2 door saloon around last year, only been driving about a year she is my first car but her crankshaft bearings have gone and I have been told at any moment she could die.
I was looking online for a new crank and bearings but it costs a lot of money and I need the car for everyday use, so I was wondering if it would be better get a recon engine so that I can have the original engine out and do a complete rebuild, then put it back, while still being able to use my car.
Then sell the recon once I'm done with it.
So I was wondering who does the best reconditioned engine?

Ben Pratt

Bearing in mined she only has 40,000 miles on the clock the original engine is worth keeping

recon engines are normally on an exchange basis

Hi,
Here are some options for you.....
Best wishes,
Mike.

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/MORRIS-MINOR- ... 3cfbe4154a

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/MG-MIDGET-109 ... 58c7cb3d88

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/MORRIS-MINOR- ... 4aec6cee42

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Morris-Minor- ... 4d34af5d9f

Thank you very much everybody

The first one looks suspiciously cheap for a rebuild, the second and third are not rebuilt and the last one is a bit expensive for one that doesn't include a rebore and new pistons.
You might be better off with an Ivor Searle, probably well in excess of £1k but have heard good reports:
http://www.ivorsearle.co.uk/remanufactu ... ngines.htm

Try KAR engines in Devon. I've had numerous engines from them over the years. One ran from Essex to Falkirk and back with virtually zero oil consumption!

If you get your self organised a new or re-conditioned crankshaft can be fitted over a weekend and I have done so on several occasions with the 'A' Series, it is a reasonably easy job.
Check out the crankshaft I posted in the Parts For Sale section.
I am not sure what the part number means as I cannot find it in the parts lists I have but I am sure that someone on here will be able to tell if it is 948cc or 1098cc.
There are a couple of cheap crankshafts on 'e' bay that are suitable for regrind - purchase and get it re-ground and fit with new shells to your existing engine.
To me the above is the most sensible and cheapest way to overcome the difficulty/problems with your crankshaft shells.

You sure that's not a B series crank Phil ? I too have fitted a new crank in very short order - but in fact your engine may only need a set of shells, and a check that the oil filter is all present and correct. Is it burning a lot of oil ? Stories that it may 'die' at any moment are just scare mongering - unless you thrash it with no oil pressure of course. As others have suggested - some of these engines may have had little more than a nice coat of paint - and those that sell 'reconditioned' engines that haven't had a rebore are just taking a rise.... Be very aware. there are many Chancers out there. Why not look for a 'running' engine to put in the car temporarily -while you fix your own engine correctly ?

KAR Engines in Barnstaple, Devon rebuilt my side valve engine

I was only looking for a new crank so that I do t have to wait while mine is getting reground, and do I need all the shells? Also she dosnt burn oil but leeks it a lot!!

If you have the crank re-ground all the journals that is both mains and crank pins will or should be re-ground the same unless either the mains or crank pins are salvable/re-useable or the re-grinder after measuring considers that the mains and crank pins need to have different re-grinds. Never the less the salvable journals should still be polished.
You will require a full set of bearing shells even if only either the mains or crank pins are salvable. It would and is bad policy to only renew either mains or crank pin shells.
The company re-grinding the crank should be able to supply appropriate the shells.
bmc
The three bearing MGB crankshaft is part number 8G2749.
I still have not been able to trace the part number given in the listing

Why not have a look at ESM's reconditioned crankshaft - supplied with all shells, thrusts etc. It works out at £118.50 plus surcharge of £90 until they get a usable (ie 40 thou or less) one back. Don't think that is too bad.
http://morrisminorspares.co.uk/shop/pro ... 81167c43bd

I would drop the sump and have a look at the centre main and a couple of the big ends, then decide if new shells will do (still an engine out job) or a reground crank and shells. Budget for a new oil pump in that case, and fit a new timing chain. I've easily done that in a day (after breaking the crank on a rally - and no hoist to help...) and back to Uni next day in the car ! The tricky part was taking the broken crank back to the BMC Parts Dept..... Well wrapped in lots of oily newspaper and carefully repacked in the box the reground crank had come in... The parts lad took it from me at the counter, and casually dropped the box against the wall on the floor behind him! No wonder the crank was broken !!!!!!

Just to add - these engines rattle the big ends for two main reason - #1 SHORTAGE OF OIL ! The dipstick MUST be kept filled to the FULL mark. Check every week-end. - #2 OIL FILTER PRESSURE PLATE MISSING. The plate under the element is all too often thrown away with the filter - and then there is no effective filtering any more. Check carefully - or fit the foolproof screw-on element conversion. Otherwise, assuming oil and filter changes as specified - they will go on for EVER !