Morris Minor Owners Club

Having removed the red/brown coloured rust from pits, do the dark and dull black bits need to go to, or is this as sound as the shiny metal?

No - it's RUST and has no strength whatsoever... So while it may be ok on a 'wing' it's got to go if it's a structural part. So saying - 'rust killer' may keep it at bay for a while - but it is less than perfect.

It seems a lot tougher than "red rust" as in a few seconds with a wire brush drill heads get through the "red rust" but the black bits seem as tough as the sound shiny metal. So it'd have to be taken out with a dremmel until shiny and then filled with weld?

A picture would really help in answering your request.

[frame][/frame]

Sorry not the best lighting conditions[frame][/frame]

Difficult to see which part of the car it is but it looks pretty good. Personally if it's not part of the outer body I would treat it with rust killer and paint over it.

I agree.

I would coat in in some sort of rust killer, it will go into the pits and neutralize the rust before you prime and paint. I have used Jenolite in the past and found it to be good stuff. Do be aware though that it is an acid so use gloves and in a well ventilated area

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/JENOLITE-RUST ... 1c4b989b35

This sort of rust killer should be available in any car shop as well!

Search Ebay for Vactan.Better and much cheaper than the little bottles of rust killer.
Mick

Cheers.

Had an assessment from the garage for the whole car. Looks like it's connected to a part which would have to be replaced anyway. Looks like this could be expensive.

nwxh wrote:Cheers.

Had an assessment from the garage for the whole car. Looks like it's connected to a part which would have to be replaced anyway. Looks like this could be expensive.

A better picture or explanation of where it is would help confirmation as to it needing replacement or just treating.

A few odd pits like that are not a worry - as others have suggested - rust killers and paint should hold it for a while. Show us pics of the 'worse' part that it connects to - the 'garage' may be cooking up work for themselves...

Sure. (I only sanded a few sections to have a look. Didn't use any power tools and it looks like it would have been wasted effort if it will all come off.)

The welding in the 90s seems to have contributed to corrosion in bad spots.

This is where the rear wheel arch connects to the boot floor. the box section will have to come off and all be replaced apprantly.[frame][/frame]

Some other, unknown dodginess.[frame][/frame]

I would advise going to a different garage, to me the rust in the top picture doesn't look serious and would respond to a good wire brushing and treating as described before. Give it a poke with a screw driver, does it go right through?

Their view is:
- They are a restoration firm, so the finished product must be as good as new.
- They consider the previous work to be MOT patches not restoration.
- They want all box sections treated on the inside.
- Not doing this, e.g. patching will cause trouble in 5 years time, which is not a good idea if new woodwork is going on.

Another pic[frame][/frame]

One panel can be pulled partially off by hand.

Ah that looks a bit worse

That would just be the very rear section, and not justify £3,000, which includes the wheel arches, and this box section, as well as the box section below the rear seats, and the sills.