Morris Minor Owners Club

The two biggest problems encountered were getting out the front bolt of the two bolts attaching the three cornered plate to the housing at the front end of the spring and fitting a new bolt. I noted that the bolt threaded through the spring eye , with it's two rubber bushes , is permanently fixed to the plate so there is absolutely no point in rubber hammering on the bolt end with the nut slightly proud of the first thread until the two above bolts are removed so as to remove the bolt which supports the front end of the spring and the permanently fixed plate to it. Some parts catalogues show the two as separate ententies , ie the bolt going thru the eye of spring and the plate - part no SUS 723 as per Morris Minor Centre, Bermingham.
Problem one. The back bolt of the two is easy to remove using the correct wrenches . Adequate access is there. Not so with the front one . I hacksawed the nut end off using a new blade and a ,circa, 42 CM long hacksaw. Angle grinding was out because of the proximity of petrol. A little patience and some 'elbow grease' and you will get there. I raised the car up and removed the back wheel to improve access to the area having put a big timber block underneath for safety reasons.

Problem two. To refit a new bolt to replace the cut one I fashioned a piece of timber _used small branch of an ash tree- 4.4cm long by 1cm dia and secured it to the head of the new bolt using wide tape. I then put the bolt at a slight but sufficient angle to the timber and worked it into the appropriate hole. I proceeded by pushing the free end of the timber against the opposite wall of the spring housing making sure that the timber is at least substantially in line with the new bolt This then kept the bolt secure in the hole. I then introduced the spring with its bushes fitted to its correct position in the housing and carefully started to put the plate into its position while making sure not to disturb the new bolt from its position. When there was a thread or two available on the new bolt I put on the nut and washer. I put the second bolt on and screwed both nuts until there was sufficient of the new bolt showing for it to be caught by a vice grip. If the bolt with the timber is twisting use a small narrow jawed pliers to catch the bolt between the plate and the spring housing until there is sufficient thread showing for the vice grip to catch it so that it can be adequately tightened. It will take a bit of ' pulling and pushing, banging and coaxing, etc, etc to get it all to sing together and keep in tune'. I tied a strong string to the timber to pull it out as I felt that it might contribute to a dirt trap if left in situ. The 1cm dia is critical if you want to pull it out thru the gap at the front and up par part of the spring housing. The 4.4cm length is the internal width of the spring housing less the thickness of the bolt head - so measure up before you take the knife out.
My apologies if some find the above a bit long winded but I had the first timer with few tools but with the enthuasist to Have a go in mind

Might be long winded but at least you sorted it.
I've just changed the rear springs on Boris so had the same job to do. The front pin and locating plate are seperate, however one of mine did push out (with a bit of swearing) but the other was welded to the plate but with the assortment of tools i've gathered over the years I managed to find a spanner that would get between the spring and the mounting to undo hold the 2 small bolts so as to remove the plate and pin as one (and throw it in the bin cursing who'd welded it).
Refitting I fitted the plate with the 2 small bolts first, put the spring in then fitted the main pin. then tighten when on the ground.
Job done

The usual reason for welding the pin to the plate is that the pin has worn in the plate and then rattles.
Welding the pin to the plate usually gets rid of the rattle so nothing unusual in finding the pin welded to the plate and was an acceptable remedy for pin to plate wear.
The plate and modified pin were fitted because the original pin (fitted directly without the plate) wore the spring hanger and then it meant replacing the spring hanger - at least with the pin and plate the wear caused by the pin can now be rectified quite easily.
Reference to the BMC plate and pin modification and drawing No: A9154W of the original set up is shown in BMC wksp man section I.1.
Phil

Certainly is extremely long winded....and using an oak tree?? I've changed many a spring and never had the slightest problem with any of it!! And certainly no oak tree required....