Morris Minor Owners Club

Would it be possible to remove & fit new valve guides without the right tools? I know there are all sorts of dodges around for various jobs on cars for those that don't have the right tools - I just wondered if this was one of them.

If you had a suitable drift it would be possible.

Depends on what tools you mean! I would not like to do it without a valve spring compressor!!!

I would not like to do it without a valve spring compressor!!!

Whoops I assumed Petee was past that stage, so I assumed torque wrench and compressor were available

Yes, Kevin....... I was just being silly!!

I guessed that

Hello Peetee,
removing and replacing guides is the relatively easy part. Ideally you then need to have the valve seats re-cut to the new guides. I don't know what the concentric tolerance is on these items, but it's probably worth trying to lap the valves in.
Having said that it is a fairly inexpensive job to have the machining done by an engine machinist and it means that the valves (assuming they are sound) will need very little lapping at all.

Alec

Sorry folks, I should have been clearer. The head is stripped. I have new valves ready and the combustion chamber and ports have been opened out (thanks for the tips Mr Vizard ). I guess guides are removed/ replaced with some sort of drift and press. I have neither but wondered if they can be knocked out with (thinking laterally) something from your average toolkit or a home made jiggery thingumy whatsit.

Depends on what tools you mean! I would not like to do it without a valve spring compressor!!!

i gave up with valve spring compresors after a close encouter of the spring kind..

I have been using a pillar drill with a sleave welded to a metal end and you put the head on the table of the drill and just wind it down.. much safer..

Don't overlook the fact that the top of the guides are a specific distance from the area that the springs rest, also if you are not using a press it is a good idea to have a spigot inside the guide( the same diameter as the valve) so that any hammering that you do, does not burr the guide and make the valve too tight a fit! You would do better to get a spigot/drift made up that assures you can't knock the guides in too far, as hammering 'freehand' is a bit 'hit and miss'

Problem solved.
Rooting around in my nuts and bolts tin I found a pivot pin that was perfect for knocking out the old guides. I stripped the thread on the section that fitted into the guide and wrapped a couple of thicknesses of insulation tape on so it wouldn't damage the internal surface (it doesn't matter for removal but will matter for replacement.
Once the guides are out, surface corrosion and a vernier gauge tells you how far in to set the new ones. Using next doors pillar drill I have bored a slightly oversize hole in a piece of hardwood and will use this flat on the cylinder head to get the new guides in straight before I tap them home to the right depth.