Morris Minor Owners Club

Do you have to remove the hub assembly in order to take off the rear wheel cylinder? Handbrake clevis pin, metal feed pipe, banjo union and rubber boot were removed with relative ease but no amount of fiddling will get the cylinder out. The "bible" says remove hub assembly but I've read elsewhere that this is not necessary. Am I a poor fiddler?

I had to do this a few weeks ago and had a job getting it out past the hub, in the end I used a hide mallet to get it out. Same with replacing it. You don't have to hit it hard but just enough to move it.

You do not need the hub moved, It WILL come out

I had the exact same problem whilst doing this job myself, and found that I had to remove the hub to do it (necessitating purchase of the appropriately sized socket to remove the hub nut!).

I've also read that it is possible to remove the cylinder without doing this. I later also heard, though, that although the genuine cylinders will come out this way, pattern ones (like mine presumably are) are either slightly larger, or a slightly different shape, and as a result, won't!

Thanks for the replies, I'll try some more willpower!

"Genuine" cylinders will come out and go in OK - rotate the hub the get the thin part opposite the cylinder, rather than the thick bit carrying the stud. I have known some pattern cylinders to require the hub off - they just do not ,atch the correct dimensions.

Even if the cylinders are a bit proud, just pulling the halfshaft 1/2 inch or so will be enough to gain enough room, which by all accounts is far easier than pulling the hub!

I have always used genuine Lockheed cylinders on my Traveller and I have never yet been able to fit new ones without pulling the 1/2 shaft out slightly.

It's a fiddle, but suddenly they just drop in !