Morris Minor Owners Club

Hi,
Within the last 6 weeks (500 miles) my car has cut out - stuttered to a halt - twice. It's immediately re-started and run fine for the next few hundred miles before doing it again. The only recent changes have been plugs, points, condenser, cap, rotor (650 miles ago). Any ideas? I'm thinking fuel but the immediate re-start seems odd. It's a late 60s 1098 that is well maintained and normally runs well (aside from very hot days).
Thanks
Alan

Hi Alan and welcome
This has happened to a few people lately and the majority of the time it's been down to the condenser. Modern ones a pretty rubbish so if you have the old one put it back in. Another thing to check, if it stops again, is if the fuel tank is under vacuum. Take the filler cap off and see if air rushes in.
There's also a bit of a clue to a potential problem when you say you have trouble on a hot day - have you got an in line fuel filter fitted after the pump? If so take it out, you don't need it and it can be a source of fuel vaporisation.

Thanks. I do wonder if it's the condenser. I have another so will swap it (threw the old one out sadly!). The re-start thing does suggest electrics. Was a bit scary last time as I was on an A road with the kids going to school!
There is no fuel filter - but I may check the float chamber isn't dirty (did change the needle valve about 10K ago)
The hot day thing seems to be something to do with unleaded. Typically it pinks slightly and the pump shows signs of vapour (fast running). I put a head shield in but it makes no difference.

After suffering similar problems as yourself I bought my condensors from Distributor Doctor, ESM also sell his condensors too, http://morrisminorspares.co.uk/shop/pro ... d8be157cf3
Since replacing it I have hade no issues at all. You can usually tell if the condensor is failing if the points are badly pitted, this is down to the condensor not doing its job of soaking up the current as the points open and close.

Sudden could mean a bad/loose connection. It is indeed otherwise likely to be the condenser. maybe a complete brand new 45D dizzy from Accu/Power spark will give great peace of mind for many moons.

Thanks. I'll go for the condenser first up - the distributor was new 8K ago so is in good shape. Time to rummage in the garage bin for the old condenser. Will keep you posted.

I have had new rotor arms fail after a short time. Poor quality

red rotors without the rivit are the way to go , accuspark electronic ignition best 50 pounds you will ever spend

Hi,
Condenser changed and it's running fine. I also cleaned the fuel pump points (how long do these last?), carb float bowl (quite dirty despite only being rebuilt 8k ago), cleaned fuel pump filter (was clean).
Thanks for your help
Alan

Well, after another 600 miles it suddenly cut out again yesterday. stuttered to a halt; restarted within 10 seconds and no issues for the rest of the day. Here is the weird bit - it was within half a mile of the past two incidents on the same dodgy stretch of the A4074!
Any ideas? The car is very well maintained.
Thanks

Don't rule out the condenser again just because you replaced it. It's worth getting a decent set of ignition bits from the 'Distributor Doctor' mentioned in the link below. Sorry you're having problems again - these sorts of issues can be a real nuisance... Good luck with it.

Still think it is loose/bad connection at the coil or dizzy. Perhaps a bump in the road sets it off? Unlikely to be condenser after all these miles - or indeed with the instant restart. Hot condensers take a wee while to cool down.

ditch the points system go electric ,more reliable , smoother running better starting and fuel economy .

There really is no justification for claims of better starting and economy....Unless the old system was in terrible condition with a pathetic spark.

Hi All,
Thanks for your replies.
The car has been running beautifully around town but today (owing to yet another problem with my wife's utterly useless 2010 Freelander) I had to run it fast on A roads. Sure enough, stuttering resulted at speed. Off the A roads, all returned to normal. The car revs fine. The engine has plenty of power.
I'm now pretty sure that it's a fuel starvation issue. There is no obvious in-line filter, the pump is relatively new (7 years). Does anyone know if there is a filter on the tank end of the petrol pipe? I'm thinking there is either a partial block or the pump has lost efficiency. Thoughts?
Thanks again
Alan

Do a flow test on the pump - it should be able to pump 1pint in two minutes.

run it till it stops and then switch off to stop the pump,coast to a halt then take the top off the carb and have a look inside the float chamber,if its full its not fuel related if empty, well you have found the problem,could be a sticky needle valve in the carb or pump issue.

Alan,

Can you get it to cut out predictably? If you can then follow 'Kennat's' advice and stop the engine immediately and check for fuel in the float chamber.

As is well documented, I had a 'misfire under load' problem some years ago and wrongly changed the whole of the fuel system from tank to carburettor, before finding that the reason had nothing whatsoever to do with the fuel system!

Thanks Everyone. I've completed the 'BMC test'. The pump is failing. Virtually no flow and very stop / start. It managed about quarter of a pint before stopping altogether.
It started playing up in local traffic this Am - on a roundabout of course! On inspection, the points are very black and the cap is full of dust. I had cleaned the points recently so there is clearly something wrong.
I see that David Manners sells a 'superior' pump as well as standard. Does anyone know if this is really better? My old pump always suffered in hot weather so if I can fix this as well then that would be great.
Very pleased to have finally found the cause. Previous to this the pump had worked fine when tested.
Cheers
Alan

Sorry, I mean Bull Motif advertise a superior pump