Morris Minor Owners Club

I am aiding a friend of mine who has sympoms of bearing knock in his engine.
In preparation for this, I've liberated a crank from a spare engine of mine. I know the history of the engine, it was a good runner until the head gasket went between one and two and eroded the block and number one piston.
In any case, all the crank journals look serviceable. It'll be getting new bearings I believe as a matter of course but in any case I thought I'd see if anyone can review the crank journal sizes and recommend whether it's serviceable. Having looked alone I suggest it is.
I have searched for my answer but as of yet have found no reference to any actual figures.
All figures are within .02 of a millimetre, figures as below:
Rear main - 44.36MM
Centre main - 44.36MM
Front main - 44.34MM

Big end #1 - 41.26MM
Big end #2 - 41.27MM
Big end #3 - 41.27MM
Big end #4 - 41.26MM

Anything obvious?
I realise I can take it to a machine shop and ask their opinion, but not sure if I'd trust them not to just suggest I regrind it for a sale!
Thanks in advance.

What size engine?

My apologies.
Standard Minor 1098cc engine.

From the BMC Workshop Manual, these are the comparisons with the minimum standard 1098 crankshaft journal dimensions:
[frame][/frame]
The big ends look OK, but the main bearing journals are very worn. Is the measured metric dimension of 44.34/44.36mm correct? The standard is 44.46mm, and after the first regrind it would be 1.7495" or 44.21mm.

If you search for 'Morris Minor Manual Download' in Google, you should find a free download for the 14th Edition manual - we are not allowed to post the direct link.

Looks like you need a regrind, mains are 0.004 down and L.Ends 0.0015 down. Take it to a crank grinder and see if it will clean up at the smallest undersize bearings you can obtain either from them or one of the many suppliers.

Thanks for your input.
Are we in agreement the crank is not worth fitting as is?
The friend in question is a student so just trying to save him some cash.
Islipminor, as correct as I can get them, unless I've measured with the vernier on an oil way or something daft but I doubt I'll have managed that for all three.
Given all the results are as close as they are, I can't see it being human error at fault, but can recheck tomorrow if you think it's worthwhile?
Thanks for the advice ref manual, never thought to look online.
Looks as though it's back to square one!

We don't know the calibration of the the gauge ...and. Or the accuracy of the convertion used . Subject to seeing pics, and double checking I would USE it !!!

Or the accuracy of the convertion used

?? 1" = 25.4mm exactly! The BMC Minor Manual has the dimensions in both metric and imperial - what is the potential problem? The MM Manual conversions vary in accuracy, and are out by up to 3 tenths of a thou, or 0.008mm , but that is not what is at issue here.

I would definitely double check the measurement with a different measuring tool. With 0.005" of wear I would expect to see evidence of it on the journals and/or shells - can you post some pictures?

If you are anywhere near the Oxford area, please pop in - I have a calibrated set of metric and imperial micrometers that we could use to make a final check.

Thanks all for your input.
Unfortunately I left my micrometer vernier at work, so will confirm the figures tomorrow.
I will see if I can find my old manual imperial vernier which will show if the digital vernier is in the correct ballpark.
I'll attach some pics of the crank and bearings.[frame][/frame]

[frame][/frame]

[frame][/frame]

No4 big end bearings[frame][/frame]

No1 big end bearings[frame][/frame]

The centre main has seem some wear (to the copper) but the crank externally looks ok.
Islipminor, thanks for your offer, but I'm based in Boroughbridge, near York.

That centre main shell certainly looks down as the copper is showing, really think as above it would be prudent to take the crank into someone who does grinding at let them have a look and advise a course of action. It could be a lot of work that has to come out and be done again. There does look to be some scuffing on the centre main as well.

My local firm charged me £10 a journal.

Could be a gamble that pays off, a set of shells and see what happens, but then it may not.

The main journals do 'look' a bit scuffed, but I don't think they are worn by 0.005", so they would need to be thoroughly checked. The big end journals 'look' to be fine.

I would also always use a good quality oil - API SJ or above. I'm waiting for the 'what's the point'!!

The original engine in our 1958 Minor had a rebore at 30,000 miles and a BMC exchange crank at 47,000 miles (both in the early/mid 1960's). Oil quality then was totally different to now.

After the exchange crank with all standard journals was fitted, the engine was always run on the best quality oil available and significantly modified. It ran up to 99,000 miles on the same crank and shells, when it was taken out in 1992 and replaced with the current 1380. The 948 was fitted into a Frogeye Sprite about 5 years ago, still on the same crank and shells, and still has excellent oil pressure.

That is why I would recommend using a good quality oil!

Totally seconded and thirded with the use of good quality oil, I know it comes up for disucssion here a lot.

If the engine is tired anyway and is heading for some work then I suppose the any old brand will do.

However if its in good order then keep it that way by use of a quality oil, its the life blood of the engine and a few pounds more spent on it will pay dividends in the long run. I have never used or believed in cheap oil for a decent engine.

Once my engine is run in and the straight 30 running oil has done its work then it will probably be Millers Classic going in, and it may even get the sport version of it.

Try Park Engineering at Malton, I have had a number of cranks done there and they do good work. Tel. No is 01653 695527 or 692941.

Polish the journals and use it... It's an economy build !!

Unless I have missed something in the post,its impossible to be sure a crank is ok for re use without having the journals checked for ovality .And that means accurate measuring all round each journal,if one has been knocked or worn out of round,the shell will very quickly be damaged and out it all comes again.If it was mine I wouldn't reuse it unless I was sure of it,it may look and feel ok,but it dosent need to be out by much, and if its had a big end knock or mains rumble then just about certain to be slightly oval. Its not a job I would want to do again after a few months, been there several times over the years not again. but each to their own.