Morris Minor Owners Club

I am trying to find as much Information as I can on the Traveller sliding windows fitment as I can before I go ahead with the job. Would the Ray Newell "Morris Traveller; The Complete Companion" book be a good buy? The Haynes manuals I have are a waste of time and the workshop manuals don't detail anything on the subject.

I am fast approaching fitting the rear sliding windows. I have new tracks and the wood has been soaked in preservative and will be treated with Osmo Base Preparation and 2 coats of Osmo Oil Plus. Has anybody got an idiots guide to fitting the track and glass, namely;
How to secure the track and with what ?
How to seal, what to use and where (I do not want to use any silicone) ?
Any tips & suggestions ?
Pictures would be a great help as well.

Also what to seal the roof/side panels to the woodwork with and nails/screws to use. I'm thinking of using Sikaflex or Stixall for the sealant and 25mm Stainless steel poly pins with the plastic caps removed/ 8 x 3/4 pozi flange self tappers. I know the pins are a tad too long but they are the smallest I can get and I can always cut them down; I am using stainless wherever I can. I was also thinking of using the same pins to fix the guttering but I am a while away from that and this will form another question at a later date.

Hope the above makes sense.

Thanks in advance

Chris.

Blackpool.

It's always worth trying the search facility to see if a question has been asked before. Have a look at : http://www.mmoc.org.uk/viewtopic.php?f= ... ow#p510754

Stainless where ever possible is good - but watch out when used with ally. If you'[re talking sikaflex, I'm guessing that you have marine leanings, so think about masts and their fixings. Copper pins are also good for the channels.

Have a read and come back with any specific questions.

I used Ray Newell's book and the advice and photos from Steve Foreman were excellent. Recommended.
John

Thanks for the replies, they are much appreciated. I have read the threads and Googled fitment of the channels and the questions that still remain are;

Why the inner track is shorter and finishes under the metal cover strip. Surely it would be a better job to continue it to the end and let the metal strip cover it alleviating moisture and debris running down onto the wood of the waist rail, vertically and horizontally? The metal cover strip lends itself to clipping over the channel nicely as if that's what was intended.

Why only seal the track against the inner part of the waist rail and the 2 tracks where they touch and not underneath as well, making sure the drain holes are kept clear? This would surely provide a better seal, after all when beading a wooden window I do not just seal against the glass but underneath the bead as well.

Has anybody treated the felt channels with some sort of waterproofing, belt and braces style?

The search still goes on for some sort of mechanical fixing for the channels.

As you have probably guessed I am anal over doing jobs and I will not commit to fixing the channels until I have explored every avenue possible .

Cheers in advance

Chris.

Blackpool.