Morris Minor Owners Club

Hi Guys,

Still looking for the introduction thread but My name is Courtney and we picked up our first moggie last night and have named her Megan.

She is a White 1971 and from the chassis number was one of the last 250 2 doors made.

She doesn't currently have an MOT and really needs some tidying and bodywork however there's a mechanical issue I need to look at first.

when you press the brake pedal the clutch goes down too...

Do they share a shaft, do they just need some lubrication or is it something more than that? The clutch doesnt always come back up when pressed either, could this problem be related?

Kindest wishes

Courtney

PS. I don't have any books or manuals for it yet but getting there!

Hi & welcome.
Yes, one pivots on a sleeve on the others shaft. Squirting some lube in there and working it a bit should get it moving freely again. If I remember correctly though you have to just remove the transmission tunnel (under the carpet) to get access to them.

That's only screwed in place though I think from what I can see so shouldn't be too hard to do

Thank you for your help

That's right it's just held in with screws, although they can sometimes be a bit of a pain to get undone.

Search Google for Morris Minor Workshop Manual and you will find a free download...... The screws can be much more than a 'pain'.... Make sure there is a return spring on the clutch link - should be attached to the engine backplate and easily seen under the car.

If you are just oiling the pivot points, I'm pretty sure you only need undo the small plate that covers the brake cylinder, it's the piece to the right of the main cover.

Only the small cover over the master cylinder needs to be removed to get access to the clutch and brake pedal pivots.
I would suggest long term that you remove the brake and clutch pedal assy and examine for wear.
If worn replace the clutch shaft.
I always find that the clutch pedal shaft wears more than the brake pedal bushes and you may get away with just replacing the clutch pedal / shaft assy.
Fit a grease nipple to the brake pedal (see attached photo) for a long term solution which is what I have done and always recommend.
BMC should have fitted grease nipples to all of the clutch and brake pedal bearings of the Minor right from the start but I suppose fitting grease nipples costs time and money.[frame][/frame][frame][/frame]

I have just done the same job, mine had not seized together but it was all feeling loose and generally not right.

The picture of my clutch pedal shaft is below, a little bit of wear can be seen on it in places

As Phil says the bushes in the brake pedal and chassis rail all seemed OK, but I did change the ones in the brake pedal, and I have done the grease nipple mod as per above.

It's a take apart job to do it properly, to get the pedal out the tunnel cover has to come out, and its worth checking and sorting the whole clutch linkage while you are at it, mine was also badly worn. Whole linkage kit fitted with a poly bush in place of the rubber one.

[frame][/frame]

There are bushes in the chassis rail worth checking, if doing a complete strip down.

Les
Whilst they are worth checking I have found that it is rare for the chassis leg bushes to be worn.
If fitting new bushes in the leg they have to be reamed in alignment to 5/8".
Phil

I checked my bushes in the chassis, but as Phil says even with the state of my pedal the bushes were fine, and its only the outmost end of the spindle thats worn. Surprising considering the state of it though, you really would expect them to be well chewed. I did the ones in the brake pedal just for the sake of it really, they were easy to do and pence.

I also found the yoke that fits onto the brake pedal bent, very bent.

Since I have sorted this, rebuilt the pedal assembly, new clutch linkage and clutch its never felt so good. It was always a bit fierce and when I first drove the car the clutch was like an on off switch, kangaroo petrol.

If and when you get the tunnel cover off good dose of anti seize round all of the screws when putting back. Without wishing to be insulting the screws will more than likely be philips and not pozi, so the right screwdriver makes for easier removal without messing the heads up. Many dont know the diffence and then swear at cross head screws.

The screws have usually been well butchered long long ago........

The screws - 1/4" BSF - holding the gearbox cover in place are indeed Philips (Patent No: 663163) and they should be brass to resist corrosion and seizing.
The short ones are Pt No: AJD2446B (MOSS).
The long ones are Pt No: AJD2448B (MOSS).