Morris Minor Owners Club

Last year I renewed the eyebolt bushes and pins (worn through-metal to metal) and I remember it being a pig of a job (first-timer...). At the time I attempted to remove the eyebolt itself from the chassis, but couldn't get it to move AT ALL...any suggestions for getting them out? - i'll need to space them out for the camber purposes when i drop the suspension down...

Anyway, can someone provide me with the quickest, easiest way to turn the torsion bar a spline round on the rear wishbones to lower the front a notch? do i HAVE to remove the torsion bar at the cross-member end too? any tips?

While I'm at it, how can i measure the tow in myself without paying someone? there must be a way!

Please, no comments telling me not to lower, it's happening, and i'll make the necessary adjustments to bump stops etc.

Thanks

You need to support the car on the front corners of the chassis with axle stands and remove the front suspension arm, then support the end of the rear suspension arm with a jack and take the suspension load on the jack whilst you remove the bottom trunnion from the arm. When it is clear lower the jack carefully until the load is off the torsion bar. You should then be able to tap the suspenion arm along the splines and remove the eyebolt bushes if necessary.
Mark the position of the arm on the torsion bar before you remove it. Each spline will raise or lower the car by 1.5 in. The rear arm will adjust the car by 1/4 in for each hole in the adjuster plate.
I would suggest a workshop manual before you start

It can be done at the roadside without even removing the wheel! Just read and understand the workshop manual.... As you have already renewed the eyebolt bushes - I assume you greased the bolts on re-assembly, so they will come off easily now. You will however gain much more benefit if you leave the car at standard height - and simply drain and refill the dampers with SAE 40 (or even 50) oil. 'Tow in ' ?? Do you mean Toe-in ?? Yes easily measured - make a simple gauge from Dexion or similar - or even from timber. Measure 3 times to make sure you are getting a good reading - and make sure the track rods are equal length both sides...

many thanks! will of course have the manual with me very step of the way yes i meant toe-in! cheers for the tips!

I also have a clonk on the front suspension when i break hard-ish. haven't located it yet but haven't renewed the top (perhaps bottom as well) trunnions before, could either be the culprit? when i rock the steering wheel just enough to turn the road wheels a tad (when stationary) i also get a slight clonk occur...

Yes indeed - inspect the trunnions urgently before they pull out on you when you least expect it! It's quite a shock when the wheel buckles under the car - usually damaging the front wing as it does so..... Sounds like it all needs a thorough overhaul, rather than worrying about 'lowering' ..... beware fitting new trunnions to worn kingpins.... far better to grasp the nettle and fit complete new trunnions. Then you KNOW that with regular greasing, they will last 20/30/40 years without any risk of pulling out.