Morris Minor Owners Club

Hi guys real important this one! how do i bench test my front hydraulic dampers?! i no how to remove them etc, but what is the actual process of testing them!? heh! cheers, charly

Well, the usual 'rule of thumb' method is if they don't leak and are full of fluid and damp properly then they are fine.

If they are on the bench then make sure there is NO lateral movement and that the arm is very stiff to move. Other than that I don't know what the offical Morris tests were (if indeed there were any).

Supposedly (I've never done it) you can put the damper body in a vice and try to move the lever arm using muscle power. If they work properly then it should be difficult but just possible for you to slowly move the arm but you encounter a lot of resistance from the oil. If you find it easy then you're either 1) very strong or 2) the damper is knackered.

Having said that, the easy way to test is to simply push down on the wing - the dampers are working if there is no significant rebound from the upstroke. They are shot if the wing goes up and down twice.

Having said that, the easy way to test is to simply push down on the wing - the dampers are working if there is no significant rebound from the upstroke.

Best not to try that on the Raymobile!!!

I like the one sided lowlight conversion ray - i hope you're going to keep that feature!

I like the one sided lowlight conversion ray - i hope you're going to keep that feature!

It's tempting - does anyone remember the Rat-look V8 that's been to a few rallies? Raymobile has a lot in common with it

This one you mean:



For bigger piccies see:

http://potteries.mmoc.org.uk/RallyPics/ ... 03_448.JPG
http://potteries.mmoc.org.uk/RallyPics/ ... 03_449.JPG
http://potteries.mmoc.org.uk/RallyPics/ ... 03_445.JPG

There must be something wrong with me - I love that car! P'raps that's why I'll never build a concours winner...
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Oh come on Andrew you know that steering wheel will be murder on the old finger nails

I thought about that years ago and thought the solution would be to cast clear resin over the chain links to make a 'safe' steering wheel where you can still see the chains.

Oh OK, I don't like the stering wheel then...
a

Cam wrote:This one you mean:

s'got 40 watt club written all over it - EXCELLENT - just a bit of matt black here and there... and the obligatory pizza box (wos reckon kate!)

If it warn't a chop I'd *love* it. I kinda fight between really liking it, and disliking the chop

Still, excellent 40watt potential I'd've thought

[on which note, where's the site again?]

i haven't pulled my finger out and rebuilt it yet - the old one's here (with added MZiness):
http://40-watt-club.tripod.com/

Cam wrote:Well, the usual 'rule of thumb' method is if they don't leak and are full of fluid and damp properly then they are fine.

If they are on the bench then make sure there is NO lateral movement and that the arm is very stiff to move. Other than that I don't know what the offical Morris tests were (if indeed there were any).

In a nutshell, that's what the BMC workshop manual says too. They advise replacement if there's a problem.
a

Oh come on Andrew you know that steering wheel will be murder on the old finger nails

thought about that years ago and thought the solution

My solution was to chew my finger nails for the rest of my life.
99% of the time this "nasty dirty habit" [my mum] works in my favour; I don't have to scrub the dirt out of them, they keep me occupied on occasions when it's too cold, dark or rainy to work on the cars, it's something to do to stop me doing drugs or tabs, and they don't snag on my nighty-night blankie.
the other 1% of the time I'm cussing because I've just bent the end of my finger over the truncated nail trying to get a awkward bit of the car - like a underfelt trim button - into place.