Morris Minor Owners Club

Hi everyone!

Well, now I've got the new laptop (a long long story involving hot chocolate so we won't go there...) I have the internet up and running again so...

I'm planning a few changes to Hebe's electrical system.

As of tomorrow I hope to put our old 6GB creative Jukebox in Hebe in the Glovebox. I'm contemplating fusing the system seperately and removing the original fuse box (partly because the thing is very temperemental and I've had to stop once or twice before to wiggle fuses when the indicators or wipers or sidelights or radio have stopped working. And no, they're not all on the same fuse; the radio is on the unswitched circuit.

Any recommendations for good fuseboxes? In fact, I'm even contemplating a resite of the fuses to the inside of the car, but that'll probably wait until I've stripped her and put a new loom in

I'm thinking any spade based system would be okay, but how many fuses??? I'm thinking that a 6 or 8 fuse box would be quite good (I do have plans for the halogen lights and heated rear window) so it'd give me some room for them...

Nikki

Multiphonikks wrote:
Well, now I've got the new laptop, I have the internet up and running again

So it's you who's in charge of it - I'd always wondered...

Hello Nikki,

the easiest way to replace the existing fuse box is with a new one of the same type. However as you are thinking of more circuits try this company, http://www.vehicle-wiring-products.co.uk/, they have a good stock range and also sell the correct coloured wire by the metre. If you are considering fusing the head lights then this is quite a big job to do it in the safest way, i.e. with a fuse for each filament. If you fuse just the headlight supply (blue feed) then should that fuse blow while you are driving at night you have no headlights, quite scary.

Alec

Alec wrote:Hello Nikki,

the easiest way to replace the existing fuse box is with a new one of the same type. However as you are thinking of more circuits try this company, http://www.vehicle-wiring-products.co.uk/, they have a good stock range and also sell the correct coloured wire by the metre. If you are considering fusing the head lights then this is quite a big job to do it in the safest way, i.e. with a fuse for each filament. If you fuse just the headlight supply (blue feed) then should that fuse blow while you are driving at night you have no headlights, quite scary.

Alec

Hi Alec, If I put halogens in I'd probably put a relay in (as with the rear heated window)

bigginger wrote:So it's you who's in charge of it - I'd always wondered...

ssssh! No-one must know!

Hello Nikki,
a relay is not necessary if you use Halogens of the same rating as the Sealed Beams. That is what I fitted on my Wife's Traveller.
A relay in it's self will not improve light output but does lessen the load on the light switches. (at the expense of something else to go wrong)

Alec

Hi Alec,

Yeah... I wasn't worried on the light output... but I was worried about burning the switch. I mean, it is getting on in years so I wanted to give it an easy time!

I was worried about burning the switch. I mean, it is getting on in years so I wanted to give it an easy time!

surely the cheaper / quicker / easier option would be just to replace the switch?

Nicki,

There is no reason why you shouldn't replace the existing fuse box if you want to, as long as you remember that it also acts as a junction box for the Petrol Pump, Coil and Dizzy.

In a moggy there are basically four types of circuit.

1. Is Unfused and comes Directly from the A1 terminal on the Control Box to provide all the Head, Side and Interior Lighting.

2. Is Fused and comes Directly from the A2 terminal on the Fuse Box to control the Horn.

3. Is Unfused and comes from the A3 terminal (acting as a Junction Box) on the Fuse Box, via the Ignition Switch, to run Petrol Pump, Coil and Dizzy.

4. Is Fused and comes from A4 terminal on the Fuse Box, via the Ignition Switch, to run Wipers, Heater, Fuel Gauge,Brake Lights and Indicators.


The issue with fusing the headlights is that, as has been previously said, Unless each element is individually fused, Blowing one fuse will also take out any other lights dependent on it.

I have been using Halogen Headlights for two years now without a problem. The Headlight switch is built like a battleship and will easily take any extra load.

Also, if you do go along this path, you need to remember that the Live side of the Headlight Switch also acts a junction box for the Brown/Blue wire that goes on to the Live side of the Ignition Switch.

A while back I sourced, and modified to suit a Moggie, some diagrams of each type of circuit to help me work out what was going on. They are for the moggie (61-63) with the Direction Indicator Relay Unit, but if it would help you I'll make a copy of them available to you. Only if you do end up referring to them remember Caveat Emptor!

Robin

That sounds invaluable. Are you going to shove them up on the web somewhere? If not, could I blag a copy?
a

Multiphonikks wrote:Hi Alec,

Yeah... I wasn't worried on the light output... but I was worried about burning the switch. I mean, it is getting on in years so I wanted to give it an easy time!

My 54 series II has dirty big contacts on the light switch and I run 95/105 Hellas with no relay for about 10 years. No worries. Age should not be a problem, but I suspect that the later models series III & IV have much smaller contacts - thus a relay is probably required.

Good luck!

Bigginger,

I've sent you a PM

Robin

Robin, something spooky going on, I didn't get one!

Bigginger

I've tried again.

Robin

Multiphonikks wrote:Hi everyone!

Well, now I've got the new laptop (a long long story involving hot chocolate so we won't go there...) I have the internet up and running again so...

I'm planning a few changes to Hebe's electrical system.
Nikki

Nikki ...

This is what i did to Mirium ..



In the same way as you were scared of burning out the lightswitch I was worried about burning out the ignition switch.

The coil and the relay are switched by the ignition switch.

All other switched items are via the relay which has a seperate supply from the starter solenoid.

the two taped up wires are spare feeds.

There are also two wires for the interior light that are not connected ..