Morris Minor Owners Club

Would appreciate some help please.

Have had a look but cannot find any mention of the time it takes to replace rear springs in previous posts. I'm assuming a few bits are a challenge to remove!!! Is it easy to do as a 1 man job?

Also do the kits from ESM/Bull Motif include everything needed?

The workshop manual only has a brief mention for this job and doesn't have any torque settings.
Are the bushes in the chassis just rubber or a steel sleeve?
Anything els I need to know before starting?

Thanks
Dave

It's pretty much a full day job. Support the car very well..... Soak the fittings in Release Oil a few days before. Make sure the bump stops are either in good order and fit for reuse - or have new ones to hand. I would fit polyurethane bushes rather than rubber.... And take the chance to drain the dampers and refill with SAE 40 oil.

one tip. if the U bolts have never been off,and you have new ones,just cut them off.or over tighten to snap them.

The springs can be changed single handed. The kits have what you need unless the work reveals rust holes. If the manual doesn't quote a torque setting it isn't critical. The original bushes are just rubber, without metal.

How long does it take? How rusty is a Morris Minor? How long is a piece of string?

bmcecosse wrote:It's pretty much a full day job. Support the car very well..... Soak the fittings in Release Oil a few days before. Make sure the bump stops are either in good order and fit for reuse - or have new ones to hand. I would fit polyurethane bushes rather than rubber.... And take the chance to drain the dampers and refill with SAE 40 oil.

Hi BMC, Just for reference on this, when you say 'support the car very well'....where exactly would you do that? To date, I've always raised the rear of the car by using wood against the (front) rear spring hanger point, if that makes sense. But I'll need that area clear if I'm removing the spring on that side, so where is best for support pls?

I know on the front its best to place a length of wood against a chassis leg on the side you want up, spread the load etc, but I've never been sure of the back.

Thanks

Matt

I can only suggest just in front of the rear hanger - with large slabs of thick timber to spread the load.

thanks BMC.

jack it up as high as you can with trolly jack under diff. Put axle stands just in front of the front spring hanger mounts.leaving enough space to get at the bolts. Drop the trolly to let the axle down but still supporting the weight(allows you to ease it up and down if needed.)Disconnect springs one side at a time,and refit new ones one side at a time,keeping axle on trolly,again to assist in locating springs. I find.Its easier to fit the spring to the chassis and then fiddle the axle onto the spring ,than the other way round.there is enough give even with the other side still attached to move the axle slightly to get it to line up with the spring,. Don't fully. tighten the shackle bolts until you have let the car back onto its wheels or you may cause the springs to bind,then tighten up the bolts.If you haven't got a trollyjack ,...........................buy one you will use it time and time again . One tip,not ,,just for springs,before you take the wheels off,once the car is off the ground and under final support , give the car ,a good shake,if its going to fall better now than with no wheels on or with you UNDERNEATH. good luck

Caution! Axle stands just in front of the spring hangers are very possibly going to distort the floor pan - and in worst case - go straight through if the metal is not in best condition.... They usually have a V or U shaped top surface - designed of course to grip an 'axle' - and so are not ideal to place directly on a flattish surface..... Hence my suggestion to spread the load with large/thick slabs of timber..... I would also reduce the weight in the car as much as possible - remove the spare wheel/spare cylinder head/spare alternator/box of spare coils etc etc ....and the heavy tool box... Near empty fuel tank may be an idea too. It's not so long a go a Minor fell off the supports and killed it's owner....... Take care!

super, thanks both.

Good tip about not tightening up the shackle bolts fully until the car is down on the ground, and don't worry, I never go under the car unless its on ramps (with bricks wedged front/back of all remaining wheels, and bricks wedged into the slats on the ramps too so the car couldn't possible roll down!....and it in 1st gear!...and the handbrake on!)

Fuel tank is already out ready for welding in the back corners.

Matt

PS: I have a lot of spare bricks

Bricks crack/shatter - better with timber wedges...Scotches in Railway terms....