Chassis leg full of brake fluid and crud - what to do?

Post by **rayofleamington** » Mon Jan 17, 2005 11:25 pm

I took the leaky m/c out of the Elmobile this evening and all went well so job done in 45 minutes

(although a total of 1 hour 45 minutes if you include juggling cars, getting the car cover on the traveller before it went out in the rain, getting the traveller back int he garage etc..)

As expected, the chassis leg was full of brake fluid plus crud (but not the worst case - leg full of rot)
Has anyone any recommendations for getting rid of it / cleaning it up?
I could pour in a bucket of soapy water but that may be counterproductive, so am a bit unsure.

Post by **Chris Morley** » Tue Jan 18, 2005 1:11 am

I would think a bucket of water wouldn't do much to clear out the crud but it will mark the start of terminal rust.

Depending on the thickness and nature of the crud (I found dirt, rust scales & carpet fibres mixed with brake fluid?), a decent quality kitchen roll will mop up brake fluid and crud very well from inside a chassis leg. To get at some of the further extremities requires a long thin stick with two or so sheets of roll taped securely to the stick.

The key to this is finding kitchen roll that stays in one piece and doesn't rip even when it's soaking wet. Use a cheap brand and it will fall apart and become one with the dreaded crud....

Post by **Kevin** » Tue Jan 18, 2005 9:59 am

45 mins for a master cylinder thats good going Ray, let me in on your quick method your method.

Post by **rayofleamington** » Tue Jan 18, 2005 12:36 pm

It all worked fine :-
5 mins to remove the small floor plate (all screws present but none were jammed)
15 minutes faffing to remove the pivot pin and spring from brake pedal
5 + 5 minutes to unscrew the 2 brake pipes
5 minutes to undo the bolts (didn't even need a spanner on both ends!)
5 minutes to lever the torsion bar and slide out the bolts
5 minutes wiggling to remove it from the leg.

Putting a new one back in.... that'll take a fair while longer!!

Hopefully not much more than an hour though (famous last words ;-))

The last time I did one (about 2 years ago), I connected the pin back to the brake pedal first but it kept pulling the boot off, so this time I'll do it last.

Post by **Cam** » Tue Jan 18, 2005 1:05 pm

Nice one Ray!

Let's hope the bleeding goes better this time with a good M/C!

I agree with Chris. Mop up most of the fluid and drag out most of the crud but you'll never get all of it so don't worry. I did the same to my 4-door when I changed that M/C about 3 years ago........

Post by **rayofleamington** » Tue Jan 18, 2005 1:17 pm

Hmm - it just seems like a rust trap waiting to happen - I might spread a load of engine oil in there

Post by **Cam** » Tue Jan 18, 2005 1:52 pm

Not a bad idea. Use some of that 20W/50 you found in the boot!

Post by **Kevin** » Tue Jan 18, 2005 2:01 pm

Use some of that 20W/50 you found in the boot!

I hope you found some in the engine as well

Post by **les** » Tue Jan 18, 2005 9:40 pm

Meths will dilute it. Then when evaporated, waxoyl would be good.

Post by **Chris Morley** » Wed Jan 19, 2005 2:27 am

WD40 also dilutes and loosens anything oily or greasy. A bit more expensive to waste than meths, but I have used it before to help remove gunk. Another method is to warm up the dirty area with a heat gun & liquify the gunk - but don't get it too warm or it may burn! I used this method on my front wheel the other day - grease marks come off easily when heated.

Post by **rayofleamington** » Wed Jan 19, 2005 10:19 am

There seemed to be waxoil under the brake fluid slime so I just used lots of kitchen roll on the end of various long rods to mop up most of the brake fluid (and also unclogged the drain hole under the m/c).
The leg has already been patched at the front end so it's not going to last forever anyway. Whilst under there I noticed that unfortunately the nearside leg needs more urgent repair

Post by **Matt** » Wed Jan 19, 2005 12:33 pm

the nearside leg needs more urgent repair

*whistles*

Post by **uclarge** » Wed Jan 19, 2005 7:08 pm

could try using a hoover and sucking the stuff out? or tiliting the car so it drains out?!... charly

Post by **Chris Morley** » Wed Jan 19, 2005 7:30 pm

It's not usually wise to use a hoover to suck out liquid or slimy things - the result is often a dead hoover. However they are great for sucking up dry rust flakes with a length of flexible pipe taped to the attachment. I used a 2 ft piece of garden hose to suck up rust flakes from a minor's chassis legs.

unfortunately the nearside leg needs more urgent repair

Doh!

Looks like El will be buying a crate of beer at this rate....

Post by **bigginger** » Wed Jan 19, 2005 7:35 pm

uclarge wrote:could try using a hoover and sucking the stuff out? or tiliting the car so it drains out?!... charly

...but you could try a wet hoover (they do exist, promise) if you can find/borrow/hire one. Not convinced it would be much use on that quantity of liquid though. Agree on hoover for rust flakes in chassis leg - once again, thought it was just me!
a

Post by **rayofleamington** » Wed Jan 19, 2005 9:17 pm

or tiliting the car so it drains out?!...

I did that first - it was making a bit off a puddle but has now finally stopped dripping.
Bleeding didn't go so well, and it takes 2 presses before the brakes work after using the easibleed (before bleeding it, it took 3 presses so not a great improvement!!)

however the new front shoes won't be helping either so maybe it needs a run to bed them in followed by readjusting.

As for bleeding - I might go back to doing it the old fashioned way.

Post by **Relfy** » Thu Jan 20, 2005 1:13 pm

Oo. Errr... sorry i didnt' notice this thread. Have been sneakily popping in and out hoping my bosses dont notice!

Hmmm.....

Post by **Kevin** » Thu Jan 20, 2005 2:17 pm

you could try a wet hoover (they do exist, promise)

You mean an Aqua Vac Andrew

Post by **bigginger** » Thu Jan 20, 2005 4:13 pm

That's the boy!
a

Post by **rayofleamington** » Thu Jan 20, 2005 4:37 pm

Anyway - I did my usual trick of over adjusting the front shoes and it now has brakes on the first press - although the second press is better. It's nice to have it driveable

even if it is still not right