Morris Minor Owners Club

Hi just seen the W/D TR6 conversion, just wondering who has it and if they think its worth it! block and head are been blasted and cleaned, will have new rad and hoses, only component that probably wont be new will be the internal heater matrix.

ive been using it for a year and no issues whatsoever , it is expensive when you include the prep fluid , but if you get no corrosion and no pressure on the system ie strain on the hoses its got to be good , i know the sinics will come on here and say waste of money but each to there own and i am willing to try new things it should last 20 years

Not wanting to prove your prediction wrong! Distilled water and antifreeze, served for years. Spend your money on something you need!

les wrote:Not wanting to prove your prediction wrong! Distilled water and antifreeze, served for years. Spend your money on something you need!

I have also seen what this has done to current block and water system, - though admit we don't know how it has been maintained in the past. anyway of doing washing out all that corrosion/sludge that builds up?
by the way it is going to require a new heater matrix aswell.

Although I have not shown much enthusiasm for this stuff, I will agree that conventional cooling water does affect waterways to some degree over time.

Never had the slightest bother using good old Scottish water!

the water here roy is very hard have to descale the kettle every week , hence why i am trying this evans stuff . when i go to yorkshire its oppioste very soft , i just like to try new things no harm in that .

I really would be worried about the boiling temp of the waterless coolant of 180 C... I would like to have some kind of an early warning at around 100 C when my engine is getting hot.

The ultimate boiling point of the waterless coolant and the ultimate boiling point of water for the purposes of cooling a Minor engine bear no relationship to one another. If waterless coolant was used and there was a standard thermostat fitted to a Minor it would still open at say 82 degrees and the waterless coolant would then be allowed to circulating and cool as normal.
The 180 degrees quoted is a red herring.

the freezing point is minus 40 celcus so i think its great had no issues during the last year . if i was maintaining my car by the book i would be changing the coolant next year , what does good antifreez cost thease days £20 for 5 litres .if i get more than 6 years the waterless coolant has paid for its self .as ive said time will tell and at the end of the day if i get no corrosion and it lasts then its a job well done , and its my money thats been spent no one elses , i think its an investment .

3 questions---How much does this stuff cost? Is the system completely filled with it, with nothing added? Is there any preparation needed before filling? Interested to know!

I put a litre of Pound Shop ant-freeze in my engine 4 years ago.......

Here you go, all the info is here,
http://www.moss-europe.co.uk/evans-wate ... lants.html

Thanks for that! All questions answered.

More BHP ??? I don't BELIEVE it !

No Water – More BHP (Premature detonation associated with overheating, and hot spots is eliminated, optimising fuel combustion, providing more power and improving fuel economy

Only if it was overheating before the miracle fluid was added

But there is no indication that this 'miracle fluid' has any better specific heat capacity... I wondered if it was maybe ethylene glycol (as was used in Hurricanes/Spitfires and many others..) - but it's specific heat capacity is only 50% that of water!! I suspect it is likely to be a member of the glycol family.. To suggest it will eliminate 'pinking' and so release extra power is a step too far for me !!

while we are talking about the good old merlin engine , in russia they added a lead catalist to the fuel lines of the hurricanes that were stationed there because the russian fuel was awful , now thats opened another can of worms , but i have an unleaded head on my engine .