Morris Minor Owners Club

Just fitting a recon wiper motor and when I opened it up to connect the cable there seems to be something missing - ie the large cog

Before I go back to "cow sign" spares and complain, can someone just confirm that you would expect to see this cog in a recon unit - surely......?[frame][/frame]

Marion
Yes it's missing it's gear and shaft.I suspect it is the recon wiper motor that wasn't finished , late one Friday afternoon.The cover was replaced to keep it clean and the assumption was it was all complete and put on their shelf.

Get the supplier on the phone to report the problem asap and seek a replacement and refund of your return postage charges.Record staff member's name date , times of phone call etc.Only send a photocopied ,receipt if requested, keep hold of the original.
I'm assuming there was nothing in the paperwork suggesting anything other than a fully reconditioned wiper motor for a Morris Minor was being supplied ?

Bob

Thanks for confirming that Bob,

Great isn't it? Just tried to ring them with no luck, probably closed this week, so have sent them an email. Really annoying as I paid for premium shipping to get it quickly - which I am reclaiming - and had already returned my old unit

Doh!

Marion

Was there really anything wrong with the old motor? Sure it's not seized up wheel boxes/spindles??? If you pull/push the rack - do the wipers move easily? The gear is probably 'missing' because it determines the sweep angle of the wipers...it may be that the idea is to fit the gear from the old unit - to keep the sweep angle correct. If you sent it back by City Link - it won't have gone too far.....

I think some companies specify you have to remove the gear from the old one before sending it back. That was the case when I bought a reconditioned one for my clap hand system two years or so ago.

Yes I had to do the same,on a scimitar.They just recon the motor and leave the other bits to you,If you think about it ,it would be impossible to hold every type in stock,each gear wheel,would be matched to the sweep,The only way if you didn't have the old one would be to buy a minor specific,from a dealer to get the correct full motor.Mind probably they only get the re con unit from the same place so situation may be the same just had a look at tom roys parts list shows wiper motor rec NO GEAR. So Hope you still have your old one

ESM do the same. Their website states "Please keep your gear wheel to swap into the new motor when it arrives"

will there now be a wanted ad

They told me today that "we would advise retaining the old gear shaft and cog". Me "where does it say that on the online shop?", them - "it doesn't, but we will now change it"

I had already returned the old one, so the missing part is now on its way back to me.

This is what the shop description said. I am not a mind reader....

And yes, I am beginning to wonder if the old one was OK all along... Grrr ! Trying to move the drive cable by hand is virtually impossible with the blades in contact with the screen, but OK if not.


Part No: WPR104
Description:
Superior Wiper Motor(1098cc)*DR3A*Oct 63-On*Fully Reconditioned With Rewound Armature*Exchage*(NOT JUST ANY OLD RECON JOB)These are the best!**(PRICE INCLUDES A REFUNDABLE SURCHARGE OF 25.00 PLUS VAT)

Oh well - it should be fine when it arrives... Dribble a little engine oil down the wiper spindles while you wait..

The supplier's info now includes the advisory regarding retention of your existing gear wheel.
Should have read correctly in the first place but hey...mistakes happen and I guess no harm done.

Marion
The cable is easier to move if you put a round shafted screwdriver ( the biggest that will fit ) in the hole that the connecting arm sits in normally.It will effectively make a "T " handle to pull / push on.
With the wiper blades off the screen, oil dribbled down the wheel box spindles ( as per Roy's suggestion ) you will be able to move the rack in the tubes.Don't go mad.. move it only a small distance 1" / 25 mm back and forth.

When you get the shaft and spindle back check the " end float " on the armature shaft.It should be 0.008 /0.012 " or 0.2 /0.30mm. i.e just enough for the shaft to rotate freely.Grease the shaft lightly and the perimeter of the gear wheel generously.Don't pack the internals so much that the moving parts will struggle to move !

Bob

how does 'oil dribbled down the wiper spindles' work if the rubber spindle seals are in place? Or are we assuming they have already rotted and fallen off and thats why they are stiff!

If doing a thorough job its worth stripping down the spindles, greasing and renewing the rubber seals. Hellerman sleeves can be used and they are only a few pence each.

Taupe

Taupe
If anyone has done a full restoration, renovation of the entire windscreen wiper system, whilst it is in bits, is quite straightforward.
Degrease the wiper boxes, tubes . cable and wiper motor gear assembly, usually put in new brushes, clean up the commutator ( ? ) desolder and rewire the main internal / external cable ( ?).Re grease the whole lot, where necessary ,new rubbers and install in the car.Job done!

When you have an assembled car ,life gets a bit more complicated getting access to the wheel boxes and tubes.Hence the Roy's suggestion of dribbling oil down the wheel box spindle and the wheel box.It's sometimes enough to get the hardened grease loosened slightly and the cable moving back and forth ( Marion's issue 5th Jan post ).
Bob

Bob

I fully agree, the point I was making is the spindle seals are usually overlooked as they are hidden under the blade mounting cap ...failure of these is the most likely cause of spindle seizure and all of the associated wear in the wiper mechanism and also an often overlooked water entry point...

I dont think the usual parts suppliers do these replacement seals.

Taupe

I'm not sure how they would be renewed anyway... I find a wee dribble of oil works wonders on possibly 50 year old wheelboxes.... but feel free to ignore the suggestion if you wish.......

BMC

Oiling is fine if the seals have disintegrated (most 50 year old ones will have) and for a quick fix.
It wont work if the seal is intact.

The seal can be replaced without dismantling by stretching it over the blade mounting cap and easing into place but is a little tricky. It is similar to a thin valve stem rubber seal.... If using hellerman sleeves these will stretch to 3 times their diameter.

The blade cap is simply pressed onto the splined shaft and centre punched to secure..it can be pressed or punched off quite easily and you can then get to the spindle to clean and re-grease, then fit a new seal. A little loctite will ensure the blade cap is secure when pressed back on which can be done simply in a vice.

Taupe

Thanks for the method taupe.....