Morris Minor Owners Club

Hi everyone

I'm trying to replace the ball joints on my car and can'tget the locking nut to come loose. Is there some trick or knack to it. Its absolutley stuck on the track rod

Any ideas or advice would be appreciated

Cheers

Chris

Is the taper turning in the ball joint? If it is use your ball joint splitter to pull the taper onto the steering arm, ie the opposite way it's supposed to work.
Either that or cut the nut off with a hacksaw.

Hi

I think we might be talking at crossed purposes here.. I'm talking about the lock nut on the track rod behind the ball joint.
Can't free the joint to remove from the rod. I have split the ball joint already
Cheers
Chris

Ah sorry, a bit of heat with a blow torch should shift it.

OK Cheers

I've just soaked it again in penetrating oil so I'll give it another go tomorrow after allowing it to soak in over night

Put the track rod end back into the steering arm and just nip up the nut.
Slacken off the rack gaiter so that if the rod turns it does not rip the gaiter.
As you are going to replace the track rod end it does not matter about putting pressure on the track rod end ball/socket & rod end gaiter.
Apply a 1/2" Whit/ 9/16" BS (size of nut on my rack but yours may be different) open ended spanner and undo. If you need extra pressure apply a suitable ring spanner on the end of the open end spanner to get extra leverage.
Make sure that you turn the nut the right way to undo.

Boiling water from the kettle, poured over the nut is often a quick fix.Just don't grab hold of the nut / metal until it has cooled down.
Bob

As above - it is important to loosen the lock nut before releasing the track rod end from the steering arm.. Also make sure you are turning it the correct way.....and apply heat if it doesn't come off reasonably easily. A gas blow torch is invaluable....

Cheers for that everyone ...Its much appreciated
I'll attack it tomorrow

Well Folks..
I've been trying to get this lock nut off for most of the day. I've tried all sorts, spanners,wrenches, Blow torch even tried moving either way and it hasn't budget at all.
To be honest I'm lost for ideas at the moment

More heat from the blowtorch - get it RED. And a longer lever on the spanner.....

I'll try again tomorrow.

Acetone and ATF is a damned good penetrating fluid, or Acetone and vegetable oil. It's a nice thin mix, the volatile acetone carries the lubricant in, evaporates and the oil does its job. Don't use WD40 as penetrating oil. it's useless.

Wire brush round the back of the nut first to give whatever releasing oil the best chance of getting in. Try and crack it first by tightening it up, getting that first hint of movement is the key,and more likely to get it by tightening it first, once you have that you have won, and can really work some releasing oil in then.

It will undo, just needs some determined patience.

ok cheers

where do you get acetone from

You pinch your girlfriend's/wife's nail varnish remover!
Regards
Declan

oh Yeh !!
Cheers

They can be very tightly stuck,as has been said heat should do it,I have found that penetrating oil is a wate of time,apart from freeing it once loosened,Try placing a good heavy hammer on the underside of the joint and hitting the top flat of the nut with another ,hard as you can,a few times,this usually cracks it loose. As BMC says make sure you work out which way to turn it ,its very easy to make a mistake since you are looking at it from the wrong way,if you see what i mean.

I've generally found that if you use a good fitting spanner of reasonable length, and give it a clout with a club hammer usually frees off the most stubborn of TRE nuts.

Problem is - that puts a shock into the rack...the force on the locknut needs to be balanced against an equal restraining force on the TRE so there is no net force going into the rack.

This happened on my first car, after applying heat from a blowlamp we ended up using a stilson wrench on the lock nut to losen it. You will probably need a new lock nut though.