Morris Minor Owners Club

Hi guys, I have just switched over engines again as I had to change the clutch and had some leaking issues with the current block, although it will be put back in maybe in the spring once fixed, and maybe with a 5 speed box depending on how the bank account is looking. (I have the box just need the fitting kit!)

I have replaced the clutch release bearing and found that the one on the car was wearing heavily into the steel and had no carbon left. The issue is that I can drive the car and select 2nd 3rd and 4th without any issues at all, but when stationary and selecting 1st the gears crash. I was hoping it could just be a adjustment, but have no idea where to start or what to do as its the first time I have had a box issue after working on the car.

Does anyone have any idea as to what the problem is or what I have done? As far as I know nothing went astray during the fitting, so am a bit confused. as the new bearing and its clips where installed as the book shows.

Although I do now have to change the head gasket as the little bugger has gone on cylinder 4, and the LCB seems to have cracked a weld so thats also on the list of things to fix!

As far as I know that's not unusual, no syncro on first. I automatically move the gear lever towards 2nd before engaging 1st, then no problem.

Depends how bad it is - is the free play on the pedal no more than 1 " ? Idling revs too high ? Otherwise - as above -stop the gears turning by pulling in to 2nd gear - then forward to 1st.

What size engine? Have you got the correct clutch release bearing?

Hi Guys, its way worse than normal non synchro, I already am in the habit of 2nd first as the minor was my first car so the habit has stuck.

The engine is a 1275 midget block with a new 1275 clutch and release bearing. and a 1080 box. I haven't measured the free play, but the pedal does feel strange can't quite describe it but strange. could be that I was driving it with a dead bearing for so long, but still something feels very off with it.

The change from 2nd to 1st whilst the car is stationary is almost as if the clutch is not depressed at all, and gears are coming into contact. Not a small rub, but a definite crash. reverse seemed okay, but I can't fully vouch for that as my memory of that is no clear as I was focusing on not stuffing the box.

I discovered yesterday that the head gasket has gone on cylinder 4, so will sort that before I drive it again, regretting not pulling the head before fitting, but its not the end of the world. I will see if double clutching helps when its back on, although I am pretty sure it wont.

My confusion comes from if I had installed the box badly, surely all gears would be effected, not just 1st, although I know this would show up the worst as its non synchro. But surely there should be crunching on all gear changes and not just this one? Any ideas and help always welcome, and I am stumped by this one.

I assume the gearbox is filled with the CORRECT GRADE oil - ie engine oil , not EP 90 ??? You need to check the free play - the carbon must be clear of the pressure plate - but not by much.

The 1275 Midget engine normally has a hydraulically operated diaphram clutch. Is this what you are running or have you fitted the 1098 manual linkage? If so then you need to modify the linkage.

Hi

I has gearbox issues mine series ii would not go into 3rd. I was advised to check the oil which was very low. I filled it up with engine oil. At first nothing changed and I ended up buying a second hand box from someone on here.

I intended to change the box over Xmas , since then I have driven the car around 60 or so miles and the problem has all but gone away. I drove 25 miles recently and it only happened the once .

Mike

Hi Guys the clutch is mechanical still, no hydraulic conversion to the car, I haven't had a chance to check the gear box oil level, or the clutch linkage and free-play yet. But will when I can. I am just hoping that it is not a gear box out job as I have only just put the engine in and that was a ball ache by my self.

Hi Mike, just a bit of a query, why do you have to modify the linkage? is the angle of the operating rod too near the hole in the gearbox? cheers Iain.

Just to reduce the leg load, by increasing the mechanical advantage of the linkage - it's been covered many times -with good pictures. The Spridget clutch is very short/sharp movement. Fine with the intended hydraulic system - but heavy and sharp uptake if used with the standard Minor linkage - although some do ! And manage just fine with it.

I have also found that the carbon bearings wear rapidly with a 1275cc Midget engine fitted, which I suspect is down to the rather heavy diaphragm type clutch (I have a hydraulic setup on mine).

The only lasting solution probably is to fit a roller-bearing type one, or at least, a heavy-duty carbon one rather than a standard Minor type. Such as this one from ESM:

http://morrisminorspares.co.uk/shop/pro ... 9eab77db4e

Also, being that you are in London probably doesn't help with longevity!

Thats true, especially living in london, its not very kind to the clutch release bearing at all. Although I cant remember the state of the bearing when the last 1275 was put in the car about a year ago. Although the bearing wasn't replaced, and neither was the clutch. I have never had a issue with the midget clutch I guess it helps that I am a pretty big guy, 6ft 6 and size 15 feet. But this time around the clutch action is massively different from the last time I fitted the engine, and the crashing on first is also alarming. The clutch is brand new and should be fine.

Kind of wishing I had just bitten the bullet and bought the fitting kit for the type 9 box I have that has a shortened gear selector so it should come out in the standard minor position (fingers crossed) but after buying a new clutch I am in no rush to go that route now.

So am I right in hoping that adjusting the pedal travel may solve this issue?

Thanks again

Andy

You can remove the rubber inspection bung on the side of the gearbox bellhousing and inspect the bearing with a torch.

Yes, adjusting the clutch may help...

You will find that welding an inch extra on to the relay lever which links to the pedal and re drilling the hole accordingly will restore normal cluutch pedal movement and load. Also a roller thrust bearing will extend the life of the thrust bearing, you do not want to remove the gearbox to replace the thrust bearing every few months

'New clutch' is probably the clue here - where from??

Can't remember the midget specialist I bought it from but its a powertune item so at least a brand I recognised. Although I normally go for borg and beck clutches.