Morris Minor Owners Club

Well,
I've finally converted my last Moggy to Electronic Ignition. This was on a 1955 803cc Postive Earth installation, with the early pattern Lucas DM2 distributor. This is what it looked like before starting work[frame][/frame]Cap off[frame][/frame]
As the early DM2 points plate is secured with 2 screws, I decided to remove the dizzy[frame][/frame]and work on it on the Dining table![frame][/frame]
I bought a +ve Earth module from Watford Classic Cars (it was an Accuspark unit) but guarrenteed to have the correct early adapter plate (is comes with 2 plates - the 25D and later DM2 already fitted)[frame][/frame]I had to remove the Accuspark module from the later plate[frame][/frame]Had to clean off the heat-sink material and apply a layer onto the early plate (a little sachet of white heat-sink compound is included), and refitted the module.[frame][/frame]You have to be careful when wiping off excess compound to ensure that you haven't got any left on your fingers (gets everywhere) if you don't want to stain up the black module (like what I did).
Module and magnetic collar fitted back in Dizzy[frame][/frame]
The wires now fed through the rubber grommet, (provided) and secured with the supplied cable tie[frame][/frame]
As I wanted to be able to revert back to original points & condenser (in case of problems), I couldn't use the supplied Lucar type connectors, as my installation uses round screw-down ones, so I had to supply my own crimp on eyelet connectors[frame][/frame]

Just seen the time - I've got to dash to Tesco's, will finish the write up later,

George.

Well done -very clear. Test the vacuum advance and oil the bob weights down below before refitting to the car. It all looks very comprehensive and straightforward.. Maybe even I could manage it! But £15 extra for +ve earth..... I think I would have gone -ve !!

Do they supply a plug for the other slot in the distributor?

bmcecosse wrote:Well done -very clear. Test the vacuum advance and oil the bob weights down below before refitting to the car. It all looks very comprehensive and straightforward.. Maybe even I could manage it! But £15 extra for +ve earth..... I think I would have gone -ve !!

Hello Roy - you may not like what the finished result looks like (see additional write-up later). My Traveller is -ve earth, but I wanted to keep the '51 sidevalve and the '55 803cc as original as possible (barring the modules inserts). The module in this article cost me £42.50 with free p&p (the DKY module was more expensive).
I did fit a tube to the vacuum connector and sucked - the A/R unit did move, but not very much - I should have oiled the weights, but had already put the plate back in - will have a go in the new year.

katy wrote:Do they supply a plug for the other slot in the distributor?

I assume you are referring to the "gap" below the rubber grommit - no, there isn't anything to fill that, but the other fitting supplied, which I couldn't use, is a black version of the white "nylon" side cover, that does cover the entire opening, but this will only fit the 25D type dizzy (the "forks", in the DM2's, that are part of the base plate, are too narrow for this fitting).

Now to resume where I had to leave off (dinner is currently in the oven, on a timer).
Now to fit the dizzy back in the engine and alter the original wiring.[frame][/frame]
The coil has 2 wires connected, a White and a White with Black Tracer. The Wh/Blk is connected to the CB post and the White is connected to the SW post.
The Wh/Blk needs to be disconnected (the other end also - used to go to the LT connector on the Dizzy) and replaced by an "earth" wire connected to an earth (+ve) point - coil mount will do. Both ends of the Wh/Blk can be seen and the new earth ready to go on[frame][/frame]
Next, connect the new Black wire to the Dizzy end of the original Wh/Blk lead, using a nut and bolt to connect the two eyelet connectors. The other free end of the Wh/Blk now goes on the SW post, and you have to remove the White wire first.
This White connector is now joined to the new White from the Accuspark module (again using a nut and bolt, 2BA size as I have a very large quantity of these, in various lengths - to be accurate a cheese headed machine screw and hex nut).[frame][/frame]
I did not cut the "bolts" to length as I wanted to get the engine running as soon as possible.
Cap back on and ready to try it out[frame][/frame]
Alas, the engine didn't catch and the battery ran down whilst trying! This was yesterday morning - I had to put the battery on Trickle Charge overnight. Early this morning (Sunday), I checked the meter on the charger (an old British Made model, bought in the mid 1970's from a Tesco store, but with an Ammeter built in and automatic stop when meter reaches Zero). Charging was down to Zero. Main lead disconnected, clamps removed from battery, battery reconnected, fuel pump energised, ignition key turned to "on" and the bulk-head starter solenoid button pressed - BINGO, engine fires up but timing is way out.
Adjusted Dizzy rotational position until I had a steady, smooth running engine. Note the position of the Dizzy (moved anti-clockwise about 8deg of arc).[frame][/frame]
Dizzy mounting pinch-clamp now tightened up and the "jointed connectors" taped up with insulation tape[frame][/frame]
Attempt made at tidying up the new wiring, by the use of cable ties - this is the bit that Roy may not like the look of[frame][/frame]
Finally - the overall picture of the engine bay[frame][/frame]
Any questions? Please feel free to ask.
Regards, George.

Well - I do think you should tidy the wiring by using bullet connectors.... but it WORKS and that's the main thing at this stage ! Again - great detailed instructions of exactly how to do the job.

bmcecosse wrote: ... Again - great detailed instructions of exactly how to do the job.

Praise, indeed, thank you Roy.
Regards, George.

I'm swithering about buying a kit now.........

Good job. I also had to rotate my 25D4 dizzy quite a surprising amount after fitting an Accuspark - something they don't mention in the fitting instructions!

What's the spring clip for on the baseplate?

The timing adjustment was also needed with the similar Aldon Ignitor electronic module fitted in our 45D, IIRC it was around 10°.

Chipper wrote: ... What's the spring clip for on the baseplate?

On the early DM2 dizzys, the vacuum control rod/arm is anchored to the base plate by a post and spring clip - the later DM2s had the same connection as the 25D etc., by having a springy connecter from the vacuum unit attached to the post by a "loop" in the spring.

Timing is affected and if you take a look at the Accuspark fitting video (on Utube)
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=2lcx_Qr0KyM the guy does mention that the timing gets retarded (on a 45D) and that you need to adjust the dizzy.
George.

So does she run any better?

stevey wrote:So does she run any better?

So far - yes. I haven't been on any long runs yet, just local potter about. I also have a Carb problem on this car, so need to sort that too. Not certain, yet, whether "Roovey" is male or female.
The little black car is a "she", the green traveller is a "he". George.