Morris Minor Owners Club

If you have a wheel cylinder thats siezed. Remove it, get a short length of brake pipe with nut on one end. Seal other end, flatten, fold over and solder up. Fit bleed nipple, fill cylinder with water, fill pipe with water, easier if you can get hold of a hyperdermic shringe, fit pipe to cylinder and heat pipe with a blowlamp.

But be CAREFUL, when picton comes out it comes out like a bullet from a gun. Aim into a bucket of sand or similar.

wanderinstar wrote:get hold of a hyperdermic shringe,

I shudder to think what these are like, some hypodermic needles are frightening.

sounds a bit long winded - but each to his/her own.
Re-using rusted cylinders is a bit of a bodge anyway (although I have been known to do it ) The cylinders tend to free up if you can turn the piston so if you have a MIG it is a 2 minute job to tack some thick hex bar on the end of the piston and turn it using a suitable socket. Once the piston starts rotating it comes free very quickly, but the stubborn ones need a half a dozen turns.

The other trick is to keep a few spares nicely wrapped in case you need one at short notice... (which is what I do now)

Using cyclinders which have previously stuck is also another possible cause for this air in the system which Hebe seems to be suffering from... I'm going to have another look at some point soon, so I'd say only use the cylinders again if you're desperate (which I was).

If we were talking about an obscure classic and new wheel cylinders were hideously expensive or unavailable then I could understand going to such lengths. But why bother when Minor cylinders are £8-£15 new?

If you have a wheel cylinder thats siezed. Remove it,

AND THROW IT AWAY