Morris Minor Owners Club

I have a 1972 Morris Minor Traveler. The problem I am having is that the 10 amp fuse keeps on blowing. This is the fuse that links rear lights etc. It seems to blow when I put the lights and wipers on. I have put a 15 amp fuse in. Is this going to protect the electrics. Is their anything else that I should know.

thanks

I for one am not familiar with a 1972 Minors electrics so how
many fuses do you have? (Two on a fuse block and one in a plastic
holder underneath them)? If so then the 'Plastic' fuse should be
10 amps and it SHOULD NOT have anything to do with the Wipers!!
The wipers should be supplied through the fuse which has white
wires on one side and green wires on the other side. One of
these green leads goes to one side of the voltage stabiliser and
is teed off to the wiper motor(the wiper motor is 'live' whenever
the ignition is 'on' but the wiper switch completes the circuit by
connecting an earth).

bobinyeovil wrote: I have put a 15 amp fuse in. Is this going to protect the electrics.

It's not really good policy to replace the 10A fuse with one of a higher rating just to prevent the fuse blowing. This is just treating the symptom instead of the cause. Does the 15A fuse blow?
As Willie says the wipers and lights are usually separate feeds.

Is their anything else that I should know.

Hi Bob you have not said what you have checked or tested so far, have you checked the bulb holders for water and corrosion for starters.

Following on from Kevin, last week I routinely (about every six months) checked the front indicator/side light assemblies. These are particularly vulnerable to water ingress, the gasket arrangement doesn't seem to be very efficient. All the bulbs had actually rusted into their respective holders but were fortunately all still working. I check them because I had a similar fault a couple of years ago with the 10A in line fuse blowing and had to renew both bases. And particularly on the Traveller the rear lamps and indicators also get a bit damp internally.

The front sidelights quite often get damp from leaks at their rear. The quality on the boots is often diabolical and the cable is a sloppy fit allowing water to enter straiht into the bulb holder. (I've seen people fit them without using the boot!!)
The inside of the wing area gets fire-hosed when you go through puddles or standing water so the boot needs to be a perfect seal to the base and the cable.

On the subject or the front lenses and the wonderful way the bolts rust in place, a pal of mine overcame the problem by using the nylon type of number plate nuts and bolts to fix them and he swears that this eliminates the problems if removal is needed at any time.

Sounds good to me, that's what I'll be doing then!
a
PS Don't keep on driving with a higher rated fuse - you might as well bypass the 'box entirely with a bit of wire, with the attendant risk of your pride and joy ending up a smoke blackened wreck at the side of the road.
...and yes, I know it's not the same, but...

I agree, replacing the 10A with a higher rated fuse is inviting disaster - well a smouldering wire at the very least....

The cableform that takes power to the rear lights goes near to the clutch pedal underneath the car. It is sometimes possible for the pedal to rub against the wires, wear away the insulator and cause a short circuit.

BOBINYEOVIL........ you have given us no feedback on the fuse
blowing problem? Have you ascertained the position re the
10 amp fuse. If you switch on the wipers and then disconnect the
10 amp fuse do the wipers stop working? If yes then the wipers
have been wrongly connected to that fuse.