Morris Minor Owners Club

Hello, my 1971 Morris Minor Traveller is hesitating to run at higher revs when I drive it it jumps and hops around and barely runs, doesn't go over 15-20mph. In the video the throttle was pulled at full slowly...

work I have had done in the past few years

New Transmission
brake job (switch from power back to manual)
carb work (new float)
distributor work (new points)
and oil changed in between

heres a link to a video:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=50GCd9X ... e=youtu.be

Check that the SU carb dashpot is properly topped up with engine oil or similar.

Also try spraying WD40 around the inlet manifold gasket with the engine idling; if it briefly raises the idle speed, you have a gasket leak.

And ensure that the mixture is correct; the spark plug tips should be a light tan colour.

Other things to check are that the throttle butterfly fully opens with the throttle pedal pressed to the floor (tighten the cable if necessary) and perhaps fit a new condensor, as these sometimes cause such issues.

20 mph is desperate ! Are you sure spark plug leads are on correct order - 1342 anti-clock round the dizzy cap... If that's ok then I suggest a compression check on the engine. It may be burned valves and/or blown head gasket.

there is also white exhaust fumes coming out of tail pipe and black sut spitting out.

Well 'white' is usually just water vapour - could simply be condensation in the exhaust until it all heats up - or signs of a leaking head gasket.

bmcecosse wrote:20 mph is desperate ! Are you sure spark plug leads are on correct order - 1342 anti-clock round the dizzy cap... If that's ok then I suggest a compression check on the engine. It may be burned valves and/or blown head gasket.

ok so now it wont even start switching it to your 1342 anti clockwise. any suggestions what todo next??

Move them all round one plug at a time -keeping the same 1342 order.

I would try spraying some carb/brake cleaner down the carb intake while cranking the engine over, to see if it will start.

If not, do a compression test; all four cylinders should give at least 150psi, and be roughly equal.

Which engine do you have - the standard 1098cc?

Chipper wrote:I would try spraying some carb/brake cleaner down the carb intake while cranking the engine over, to see if it will start.

If not, do a compression test; all four cylinders should give at least 150psi, and be roughly equal.

Which engine do you have - the standard 1098cc?

1275cc with HIF carb

bmcecosse wrote:Move them all round one plug at a time -keeping the same 1342 order.

How do I know which one is number 1?

Here's my 1275cc MG Midget engine (also with HIF carb); as you can see, the number 1 spark plug HT terminal is the one on the far right of the dizzy, but bear in mind mine has Accuspark electronic ignition so I had to rotate the dizzy to alter the timing accordingly.

IIRC, the #1 spark plug HT terminal is normally aligned approximately with the vacuum advance diaphragm.

As Chipper has indicated No 1 is always at the front of the engine / fan belt end.Firing occurs when the rotor arm is pointing
at / towards No 1 cylinder.Removing the distributer cap will allow you to see this when the crankshaft is rotated.

The rotor arm moves anti-clockwise when the crankshaft is turned and the firing order 1342 is dictated by the position of the contacts in the cap ( plus of course the right leads being connected to the right spark plug ).

Looking at Chipper's picture and starting with the No 1 lead you can follow ( mentally )the rotation of the rotor arm going anti clockwise No 3 then No 4 and finally No4.
Bob

Since you seem to have lost the original orientation .....this is why you now need to move them round - one plug at a time. What was the plug order before - if it now 'won't start' after you made them 1342 ???? #1 compression is detected by putting a finger over the plug hole and gently cranking the engine on the handle till you feel the compression - then turn it to TDC. The terminal now pointed at by the rotor arm is #1 lead...

Ok, so I think I have solved the problem it now STARTS YAY!! I just played with the dizzy cap until it started and now it will run smoothy with out hoping and sputtering.

my only other problem is that there is a leak near on the bottom of the transmission where there is a small hole that nothing is in but a wire ill post a pic later

heres the video:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=B9rxVZ_ ... e=youtu.be

Good to hear that. The gearbox has a spring/rattle clip in that drain hole, which aids drainage of any oil from the bellhousing (usually from the crankshaft scroll oil seal); nothing to worry about as long as it's not excessive.

Video clip can't be seen as it's set to 'private'.

Chipper wrote:Good to hear that. The gearbox has a spring/rattle clip in that drain hole, which aids drainage of any oil from the bellhousing (usually from the crankshaft scroll oil seal); nothing to worry about as long as it's not excessive.

Video clip can't be seen as it's set to 'private'.

Ok now its back to sputtering and hoping I did a compression test all cylinders are at 150 P.S.I.

That's marginal for a 1275 -but it should run ok. So - when it's idling - can you take off each plug lead in order to see if one has 'no effect' . ie - When each is removed the sluttering should be much worse - if one lead makes no difference - then that lead/cap/plug must be suspect and should be renewed.

morriusa wrote: my only other problem is that there is a leak near on the bottom of the transmission where there is a small hole that nothing is in but a wire ill post a pic later

You can buy a proper oil seal to replace the standard scroll type, though they are rather expensive for what they are:

http://www.jlhmorrisminors.co.uk/content/a_series.php

http://www.spridgetmania.com/part/RIC77 ... te--Midget

http://gerardsgarage.com/Garage/Tech/Se ... ealKit.htm

And there are long threads on here about how useless they are.... don't waste money! The real answer is to ensure negative pressure in the crankcase to keep the oil in! But first - get it running properly!

bmcecosse wrote:That's marginal for a 1275 -but it should run ok. So - when it's idling - can you take off each plug lead in order to see if one has 'no effect' . ie - When each is removed the sluttering should be much worse - if one lead makes no difference - then that lead/cap/plug must be suspect and should be renewed.

Ok so heres my plan I am going to replace all leads, plugs, and distributor cap, then check air filter/ fuel filter and replace if needed, then I will change oil/ oil filter