Morris Minor Owners Club

Hi,
As I said in another thread (about the indicators), I've just got a traveller. I've attached a picture of it (which hopefully works). Anyway, I've just got a few questions about some things I've noticed so far.

The first thing is the clutch. It's very stiff, not impossible to press but enough to wear your foot out if you're shifting a lot. It also squeaks and moves the brake pedal slightly at the same time. The biting point is very high but it's not slipping and seems to be working properly. Is this usual?

The brakes seem to be working fine (although I've not taken it for a big drive yet) although there's something strange going on with he pedal. There's a bit of play before you feel the resistance of the cylinder (which then doesn't press down very far, is this normal?) but if I hold my foot on the pedal at rest for about twenty seconds, it gives way and goes to the floor. Then when I release it it goes straight back to normal. What could be going on here?

The engine was sounding very rough idling this morning and would stall if the accelerator wasn't pressed. I adjusted the idling screw on the carb slightly and it's going fine now. It sounds smooth and doesn't cut out. Before it also made a very sudden jump and growl when the accelerator was pressed down. This doesn't happen after the adjustment so I assume I've done something right.

The car is puffing out a fair amount of smoke, not a huge amount but a noticeable amount of white smoke when it's revved. I've been told that the carb looks very dirty and that this could be causing it.

Many thanks in advance for your replies

James[frame][/frame]

On the subect of brakes it sounds like the master cylinder is faulty. DO NOT drive it until you have had the brakes checked out by someone who knows what he is doing.
The clutch and brake pedals are on the same shaft. Try oiling the shaft around the brake pedal lever. You can adjust the clutch linkage to give more play at the top, there should be about 1.5 in free play.

As above - the pedals are binding together on the shaft - spray in release oil and work the two pedals against each other - then spray in lub oil. The sinking pedal could be damaged seals in the master cylinder - or could be leaking seals in a slave cylinder - gently soaking the shoes in fluid. Or even a rusty/leaking pipe somewhere along the system . Check the level (Hint - the master cylinder is under your feet...) - is it dropping ?

Don't worry, I won't drive the car! I haven't had a proper look at the brakes yet but the brake pedal does not get lower each time it is pressed (which I would guess it would if it was leaking brake fluid). As I said, the brake feels hard and normal until it's held for about twenty seconds (sometimes less) at which point it gives and goes to the floor. Once released it goes back to normal and feels the same. Does this point to a master cylinder problem?

I've just had a look at the master cylinder. The fluid level isn't down. When I press the pedal it jumps up and then continues to rise once the pedal gives and goes to the floor. When the pedal is released the fluid level goes back to where it was. What might this suggest?

I oiled the shaft where the brake and clutch pedals are hinged with 3 in 1 and that seems to have made that problem a bit better. The clutch pedal is scraping against the metal on the left though, especially when the brake is also pressed down.. Is there any easy way to rectify this.

Thanks
James

The sinking pedal and fluid continuing to bubble up do rather suggest failed seals. Probably the clutch/brake shaft and bushes are worn - allowing some sideways movement.

Does this need a new master cylinder bmc? What should I do about the worn shaft?

Push your foot down on the brake pedal. If it suddenly sinks to the floor then you will need a new master cylinder. Next trick will be removing the cylinder from inside the chassis leg.
Check the shaft for wobble at either end, new bushes should be available

When I press the pedal it goes as far as it should and stays there for a while (maybe fifteen to twenty seconds) then slowly sinks to the floor but in stages. i.e. it moves a bit then stops then moves a bit further and stops etc.

The shaft bush repair is not exactly easy - so unless there is considerable obvious side play on the pedals - don't worry about it too much. You can fit new seals - or a new master -your choice ! If the old cylinder bores are corroded - the new seals may not last long.

The problem with the clutch is that it's rubbing against the cover plate. It's very hard to push when the brake is also down. Is there any adjustment I can make? As for the brake, does that definitely sound like the seal is dodgy? If so, I'll replace the master cylinder. In fact, brake overhaul kits are pretty cheap. Would it be worth replacing the entire system?

Thanks

James
Brakes ...the seal is on it's way out.If you're happy to go for the complete kit, it would give you peace of mind that the braking system was A1.I've heard that the re-sealing of Master cylinders has a pretty low success rate and I can vouch for that
personally.Go for a new master cylinder at the very least.

Clutch
As others have stated the clutch pedal operation involves quite a few moving parts ...all/ some of which will have worn.
The unknown factor is... which ones and how badly.Without being on the spot and observing, precise advice is difficult.
With brakes the decision is easy.. don't mess about / take chances with safety items

Given the fact that the brake overhaul is looming, then sorting out the clutch pedal issue at the same time ,seems appropriate.Taking the gearbox cover off will give you a clearer picture of what you are tackling.Soak the screws with WD40 / Plus Gas before attempting to remove.
You can see from the ESM website , in conjunction with your manual, what parts might be required.The small bits e.g. bushes
etc are a matter of a few pounds.You could buy those beforehand and decide whether any of the bigger stuff pedals /shafts etc are too badly worn, when you've taken it apart.
If you can get along to ESM during the week, chat up the guys for advice, you might strike lucky and be able to see some worn parts.That way you would know what's bad and what's acceptable.Alternatively your Uncle could be called upon.The pedal catching could be a slightly bent pedal or just general " slop "in the system i.e a lot of small parts wear combining to put it out of line.
A good clean up of the rusty metal,inspection, assessment,replace as necessary,reassemble clutch and brake pedal as one
( after doing the master cylinder installation ) re-greasing the shaft moving parts,etc

Bob