Morris Minor Owners Club

I'm trying to replace the corroded brake master cylinder on my 1956 split screen Traveller. I've dismantled the front suspension as per not only the Haynes manual but also an original workshop manual, but when it comes to the bit where it says slide the lever off the splines, you've got to be joking. More than half a century of being open to the elements means it's rusted solid! I tried plan B, remove the eyebolt. After something of a struggle I managed to release the nut holding this to the chassis, but it seems that the eyebolt is actually welded to the chassis! So that didn't work. I thought if I could get a jack under the torsion bar I might be able to ease the torsion bar up enough to reach the two bolts holding the master cylinder in place. BUT, there's the nut on the end of the clutch and brake pedal shaft in the way. I removed that hoping the shaft would slide inwards, but no it wouldn't shift. In both manuals it says to remove the cotter pin to allow this but on my Morris there is no cotter pin. I'm at a total loss to work out what to do - anyone any bright ideas?

Good news: you do not need to dismantle the suspension. This is covered in many posts, but what you need to do is to lever the torsion bar downwards. I'll see if I can find another relevant post in a moment.

Here you go: http://www.mmoc.org.uk/search.php?keywo ... mit=Search

The way Ive done involves a bit of 2x1" timber, an axle stand and a G-Clamp.

With the car jacked up, but Im guessing as youve dismantled the suspension that youve already done that. Use the axle stand and place it between the chassis leg and the gearbox, place the 2x1" timber perpendicular across the underneath of the chassis leg with one end resting on the axle stand, then using the G-Clamp pull the torsion bar down towards the timber sufficently enough to slide the bolts out.

Ive actually done the job with the car sitting on all four wheels on the ground..

Cheers

Steve

Welcome to the messageboard! I also own a split screen traveller, do you know there is a register to record which of the cars remain as they are now a very rare beast. Contact Phil on the messageboard here he is MBO 145 or email

phillip.traves@btinternet.com

As regards to your master cylinder problem if you can soak all the splines and bolt with a release oil such as pocket rocket or plus gas and leave it for a day at least hopefully things will free up a bit more. I have previuosly used a claw hammer to pull the torsion bar down enough to push in a block of wood and get enough room to access the bolts. When replacing them you can put them in from the inner side with the spring washers to the inner also which makes for easier removal next time.

As others have described - DO NOT dismantle the suspension... Just lever the bar out of the way to get the bolts out. But since you will one day need to dismantle the suspension for other reasons - do the soak with release oil - it will pay off in the long term.

Thanks to all of you for your advice. I have an axle stand - I have some 2x1" and I have a chunky G clamp. It never occured to me to try and force the torsion bar downwards!!! Thanks again - now I have to put the suspension back together. I should have asked you guys before I started!

Ask twice - unbolt once....

Mr Haynes gets it wrong more times than is forgiveable! - which is a bit naughty to say the least, the publication is supposed to help - not hinder! Perhaps they need a proof reader with a bit of mechanical savvy - rather than just reiterating workshop data that was already incorrect! Moan, moan, moan..............

Brilliant you guys!!!! It took about twenty minutes to remove the the master cylinder, including jacking, etc. - and about an hour to put the suspension back together!! For some strange reason, the photos uploaded upside down!! It was the right way up on my desktop!
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Have you put the new MC in yet? You may find it won't fit! I had to grind off 1/8th of an inch each side of the mounting areas to get it to drop down into the chassis leg!

Mǝll pouǝ ¡

great news well done

hahahaha bmc always posts something funny!!!

Alan

The photos look the right way up to me!

Don in Australia

I thought the under side looked a bit flaky

rogerowen wrote: ↑Sat Oct 25, 2014 11:00 pm Mr Haynes gets it wrong more times than is forgiveable! - which is a bit naughty to say the least, the publication is supposed to help - not hinder! Perhaps they need a proof reader with a bit of mechanical savvy - rather than just reiterating workshop data that was already incorrect! Moan, moan, moan..............

What was unforgivable was to design and build it like this in the first place. Someone at BMC should really have been able to work out that the bolts would be better the other way round. Issignosis was supposed to be a genius for his design, he should have realised the stupidity of it. With this, the fact the carb is the wrong way round (all the fiddly bolts on the cables are hidden at the back where you cant see and cant reach), and the numerous other details that are clearly wrong I would say he was a mediocre designer with no skills in checking the obvious.

I do still like the cars but by God are they a right royal pain in the DONT SWEAR OR YOU WILL BE BANNED.

Issignosis was not allowed full reign with the Minor and had to use many parts that were produced for other vehicles in the Nuffied range.
You need to look further and wider than the Minor to see Issigonis's genius.

This is the tool for the job:
Best wishes,
Mike.

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I do still like the cars but by God are they a right royal pain in the DONT SWEAR OR YOU WILL BE BANNED.
[/quote]
I don’t think I’d still like a car if I was that critical of it ?