Morris Minor Owners Club

My seemingly impossible quest to restore my dashboard continues. Thanks to those that responded to my request for doors, I didnt need late doors as it turned out, I needed and still need old ones. I was going to use the newer ones to cover the vandal damage but alas, its no good. They interfere with choke is just one problem.

So, I must continue to look for older doors and fix this mess. Any ideas? All I can think of is a bit of tape on the back of the holes and body filler :?
The vandal struck on both sides so I have a lot of holes to fix.

Al[frame][/frame]

I assume the 'vandal' probably fitted wooden dashboard insert panels or similar, with self-tapping screws going through those holes to hold them on.

You could use filler, or preferably, braze or MIG-weld the holes, then grind the welds back.

Chipper wrote:I assume the 'vandal' probably fitted wooden dashboard insert panels or similar, with self-tapping screws going through those holes to hold them on.

You could use filler, or preferably, braze or MIG-weld the holes, then grind the welds back.

Spot on, someone at one time fitted silly blanking covers. Im hoping to do a cold repair, I am a bit worried about distorting the steel with heat from welding/brazing. I think if I chamfer the edges to increase surface contact area I might get away with filler.

Ill let you know how I get on.
Al

Indeed, or Chemical Metal or JB Weld, perhaps even epoxy resin such as Araldite may be better and stronger alternatives to normal filler.

I must be a vandal [frame][/frame]

Seriously - countersink the holes on the outer face of the dash and fill with either JB weld or body filler mushrooming the back. Having the counter sink on the outer side and the mushrooming on the inner side ensures that the filler what ever it is will not fall out or become displaced.

The extra weight of a keyfob surprises me... good oil pressure light.

bmc
Never crossed my mind regarding the weight of the key ring must get one made of unobtainium (there really is a material called that) and the light is the ignition warning light. The oil pressure gauge is sufficient for my needs. If the oil pressure drops significantly it will be too late anyway. The oil pressure oil warning light switch is such that it will activate the low oil pressure warning light at a much higher low pressure (28/30lb/sq in I believe) if that makes sense.
As an aside
If the car has not been used for some time the oil pump is always physically primed before running the engine and the ignition is not switched on until the oil pressure is up to 70lb/sq in.

Many thanks to all that replied, I found your wisdom very useful. I went the cold route and I have sourced a brand of Chem-met, in this case plastic padding as that is what i could get in Harrogate. I have chamfered and filled the holes with a good blob on the back as well as the front, thus making a mechanically locked repair. So far all is going very well. Ill take more photos and maintain this thread as it will be a useful resource on hole fixing when completed (I hope). Im leaving it to go rock hard as the car has waited up to 50 years for this repair, I don't need to rush now. Notice its nice squares, thats because I masked each hole and tore the tape off just as it was going off. I will sand and blend as required and paint by hand.

Thanks again all, More pics to follow

Al[frame][/frame]