Morris Minor Owners Club

Just replacing N/S steering gaiter and it looks like the rack has been pumped with grease although the manual says EP90 oil - but names the nipple on the rack as a 'greaser'

Ep90 is recommended but some have used grease, I prefer oil as apart from it being specified for the Minor, feel it has more chance of spreading along the rack.

les wrote:Ep90 is recommended but some have used grease, I prefer oil as apart from it being specified for the Minor, feel it has more chance of spreading along the rack.

Thanks. Is there only one lubrication point - the one accesible through a plug in the N/S toe board? on my car the nipple dosen't quite line up with the hole (it's angled a bit higher than the hole). Can the rack be twisted a bit to line it up - or is that fixed by the steering column?

Only one nipple and they all seem to be misaligned with the hole. As you have figured the column fixes the position.

I prefer grease! All later racks of exactly the same construction are spec'd for grease... It doesn't run away and hid in the boots!

The rack is supposed to have EP90 oil in it. If you do not have an oil gun which works with the nipple, then simply unbolt the nipple and give the rack 20 squirts of EP90.

That took longer than usual CJ ! You been away??

I have taken out my rack from my series 2 which is really easy and does not even need the front wheels to be removed , as I said when I did mine I placed the rack vertical in the vice and pumped EP90 into it from lock to lock I then pumped in some grease to hopefully seal in some of the EP90 ,I then turned the rack up the other way in the vice and with the thrust bearing removed put some more EP90 in ,then I did an easy modification by fitting a new grease nipple to the bottom face of the thrust bearing and the pumped in some grease .So hopefully I have trapped the oil in the middle of the rack and sealed each end with grease ,plus I can now put further oil/grease into both sides of the rack as it now has 2 grease nipples fitted ,so far nothing has leaked out

Excellent - I do actually agree with you - a mix of oil and grease is probably the ideal lubricant!

I'll vote for that too.

I'm just about to do my steering rack gaiters but on both sides and well I'm kind of debating what way to go down it
The gaiters are easy enough to do I have also bought two new TRE to fit but now wondering weather I should go oil or grease in the rack :S not really got the time or room for taking the full rack out so not sure

P.S sorry if I've stolen your thread

MoggyBlue wrote:I'm just about to do my steering rack gaiters but on both sides and well I'm kind of debating what way to go down it
The gaiters are easy enough to do I have also bought two new TRE to fit but now wondering weather I should go oil or grease in the rack :S not really got the time or room for taking the full rack out so not sure

P.S sorry if I've stolen your thread

General opinion leads to a mixture of oil and grease. What I'm doing is manually smother the exposed parts (when old gaiters are of) with grease (multi purpose) winding lock to get to as much as possible, then remove the grease nipple that on the N/S (which is not really usable for oil/grease gun as it does not line up through the hole in the toe board, and give a good 20 squirts of EP90.

Actually getting the larger end of the new gaiter to slip over the rack can be a bit tricky as it will get slippery with grease - best method I've found is to get a fairly blunt screwdriver and gently push it up the inside of the gaiter and use it to guide an edge up over the lip of the rack. If you have a CV boot tool and thin metal clips - that would make the job a lot easier. Otherwise cable ties will work, but you'll need to get a tight fit.

You'll also need to find gaiters that will last longer than 6 months.......

bmcecosse wrote:You'll also need to find gaiters that will last longer than 6 months.......

Now that is a tall order! Maybe there's some old new stock somewhere

bmcecosse wrote:You'll also need to find gaiters that will last longer than 6 months.......

Haha and where would we find such a thing Mr BMC

rogerowen wrote:General opinion leads to a mixture of oil and grease. What I'm doing is manually smother the exposed parts (when old gaiters are of) with grease (multi purpose) winding lock to get to as much as possible, then remove the grease nipple that on the N/S (which is not really usable for oil/grease gun as it does not line up through the hole in the toe board, and give a good 20 squirts of EP90.

Actually getting the larger end of the new gaiter to slip over the rack can be a bit tricky as it will get slippery with grease - best method I've found is to get a fairly blunt screwdriver and gently push it up the inside of the gaiter and use it to guide an edge up over the lip of the rack. If you have a CV boot tool and thin metal clips - that would make the job a lot easier. Otherwise cable ties will work, but you'll need to get a tight fit.

Hmmm yeah that's what I was thinking just wasnt sure how I'd go about that as knowing it would be hell trying to fill with oil (it has oil in originally)

And so your saying is full lock to left and grease the rack and then full lock right and pack everywhere else?

And when you say 20squirts is that out the ep90 bottle?

Hmmm yeah that's what I was thinking just wasnt sure how I'd go about that as knowing it would be hell trying to fill with oil (it has oil in originally)

And so your saying is full lock to left and grease the rack and then full lock right and pack everywhere else?

And when you say 20squirts is that out the ep90 bottle?


Yes, probably don't need to overdo the grease - just enough to give it a good coating. Don't forget to give the ball joint that comes from the rack a good dollop (waggle the rod around so you can pack it all around the ball).

For the oil into the nipple port - remove the nipple (small fingers!), and use an oil can (lever type) and give 20 or so squirts. Nipple back in and mark the oil can so that in future you'll know that it's loaded with EP90.

AND...... A word of warning! Don't attempt to load grease into the ball joint (track rod end) before assembling it to the rod, leave that till it's firmly in place on the car.

WHY? ... Cos, if you overdo it you'll blow the small clip off the ball joint gaitor. I've done it!!! and it's a right pain trying to get it back on again

rogerowen wrote:AND...... A word of warning! Don't attempt to load grease into the ball joint (track rod end) before assembling it to the rod, leave that till it's firmly in place on the car.

WHY? ... Cos, if you overdo it you'll blow the small clip off the ball joint gaitor. I've done it!!! and it's a right pain trying to get it back on again

Hahahaahaha thanks for the warning so have it on the tie rod and then lock nut on tight then grease? And also how much is to much grease

rogerowen wrote:Hmmm yeah that's what I was thinking just wasnt sure how I'd go about that as knowing it would be hell trying to fill with oil (it has oil in originally)

And so your saying is full lock to left and grease the rack and then full lock right and pack everywhere else?

And when you say 20squirts is that out the ep90 bottle?


Yes, probably don't need to overdo the grease - just enough to give it a good coating. Don't forget to give the ball joint that comes from the rack a good dollop (waggle the rod around so you can pack it all around the ball).

For the oil into the nipple port - remove the nipple (small fingers!), and use an oil can (lever type) and give 20 or so squirts. Nipple back in and mark the oil can so that in future you'll know that it's loaded with EP90.

Oh right ok that's fine and yeah just getting my first grease gun so fingers crossed it goes well wish me luck

By the way when it comes to the track rod ends I was thinking put some grease in the nipple and just get some grease round the joint and then fit it in and then pack it or am I just being stupid