Now is this the bit they go under??[frame]
Newbie question
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Newbie question
Just purchase a set of axle stands as think they will come in useful.
Now is this the bit they go under??[frame]
[/frame]
Now is this the bit they go under??[frame]
Re: Newbie question
Or do I need to take the wheels off to use them?
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- Minor Fan
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Re: Newbie question
Hello,
You're best to put them under the chassis legs.[frame]
[/frame]
You're best to put them under the chassis legs.[frame]
Glad to be back!
Re: Newbie question
These are what I have http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/261570132792
... isn't that the middle of the car?? (I will ask lot sod stupid questions while I learn).
Also where is the point I jack it up.... don't want to damage anything, but want to have a poke around underneath to see what rust etc.
... isn't that the middle of the car?? (I will ask lot sod stupid questions while I learn).
Also where is the point I jack it up.... don't want to damage anything, but want to have a poke around underneath to see what rust etc.
Re: Newbie question
Hello mate, Please make sure you put the axle stands underneath the chassis legs (the square panel that runs the length of the car).NEVER EVER jack or hold the car on the front suspension. When you lift the car put a chock to hold the rear wheels to stop it falling of the jack.Try and work with a friend and never work on a car that is held up just on a jack.If you need any further information just ask we all try to help one another out.Enjoy your car but always be safe. Ken.
Re: Newbie question
OK - so its the square panel going down the centre. Essentially do you only lift the car off the front two wheels using this method? Wondered why I have got 4 axle stands in the pack then?
Yes - got the axle stands so I didn't just hold up with a jack. Where exactly do I place the jack to get the axle stands under the car then?
Yes - got the axle stands so I didn't just hold up with a jack. Where exactly do I place the jack to get the axle stands under the car then?
Re: Newbie question
If you mean the long box section , running parallel to the engine , left of the picture ,then yes.
Jacking up safety procedure.Ideally.. flat level ground ( a slope is just an accident waiting to happen, the car is likely to fall off the axle stands or jack ).Hard surface, so the jack or axle stands don't sink into soil.
Handbrake on, wheels chocked with either a purpose made plastic wheel chock or a large bulk of timber to stop the wheels on the opposite side to the one you're jacking, moving.
If the area ,where you are jacking looks weak , with rust or at worst with actual holes,proceed with extreme caution.A thick bit of timber, to spread the load, works well if there is no other alternative place to lift.
Make sure the car body is the only thing you are lifting i.e don't crush brake pipes or cables underneath out of sight.
Leave the jack and the axle stands in place when going underneath, having tried to rock the car, once up...checking that it is secure.
Numerous people have been injured / died through ignoring basic safety.
Some people put the spare wheel under the car as a belt and braces approach.. I put two axles stands under and have a whistle on a piece of string , ready to hand,to attract attention should I ever need it !!
People may laugh but why not avoid an accident ?
I'll ignore your apology for " being a novice " in your other recent post.I personally have never met someone who start immediately as an expert or professional.. unless you know different ? It's we all started as a novice.
Bob
Jacking up safety procedure.Ideally.. flat level ground ( a slope is just an accident waiting to happen, the car is likely to fall off the axle stands or jack ).Hard surface, so the jack or axle stands don't sink into soil.
Handbrake on, wheels chocked with either a purpose made plastic wheel chock or a large bulk of timber to stop the wheels on the opposite side to the one you're jacking, moving.
If the area ,where you are jacking looks weak , with rust or at worst with actual holes,proceed with extreme caution.A thick bit of timber, to spread the load, works well if there is no other alternative place to lift.
Make sure the car body is the only thing you are lifting i.e don't crush brake pipes or cables underneath out of sight.
Leave the jack and the axle stands in place when going underneath, having tried to rock the car, once up...checking that it is secure.
Numerous people have been injured / died through ignoring basic safety.
Some people put the spare wheel under the car as a belt and braces approach.. I put two axles stands under and have a whistle on a piece of string , ready to hand,to attract attention should I ever need it !!
People may laugh but why not avoid an accident ?
I'll ignore your apology for " being a novice " in your other recent post.I personally have never met someone who start immediately as an expert or professional.. unless you know different ? It's we all started as a novice.
Bob
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- Minor Fan
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Re: Newbie question
The original 'factory' jacking point should be at the outside ends of the chassis cross member and looks like a length of inch square box section under the sills midway between the wheels on either side. From your photo, you's seems to be missing, maybe when some welding has been done. The general rule is to never use this jacking point.
As Ken says above, never jack on the wishbones to lift the whole car. Always best to have the car on level ground, handbrake on and wheels chocked. I jack on the chassis leg so the wheel isn't quite off the ground then slacken the wheel nuts slightly (just to release the torque on them). Then jack the wheel off the ground and put your axle stand under the same chassis leg. You can then slowly release the trolley jack. If you want even more confidence, leave the trolley jack under the leg but make sure the bulk of the weight is taken by the axle stand. When you have the wheel off, put it under the sill of the side you're working on. If the worst does happen then it's something else for the car to fall on![frame]
[/frame]
As Ken says above, never jack on the wishbones to lift the whole car. Always best to have the car on level ground, handbrake on and wheels chocked. I jack on the chassis leg so the wheel isn't quite off the ground then slacken the wheel nuts slightly (just to release the torque on them). Then jack the wheel off the ground and put your axle stand under the same chassis leg. You can then slowly release the trolley jack. If you want even more confidence, leave the trolley jack under the leg but make sure the bulk of the weight is taken by the axle stand. When you have the wheel off, put it under the sill of the side you're working on. If the worst does happen then it's something else for the car to fall on![frame]
Glad to be back!
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- Minor Legend
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Re: Newbie question
What type of Jack do you have? Scissor or Trolley?
Richard
Opinions are like people,everyone can be different.
Opinions are like people,everyone can be different.
Re: Newbie question
Step father in law gave me some of those steel ramp things.. Do you reckon I might be safer driving the front up on then as a starter?
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- Minor Fan
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Re: Newbie question
If you just want to inspect the underneath then use ramps if you have them. Ideally get someone to watch you onto them. Then hand brake, chocks, leave in 1st gear.
If you're young enough and fit enough you can inspect most of the underneath without lifting the car. The ground clearance is usually enough to check most things.
If you're young enough and fit enough you can inspect most of the underneath without lifting the car. The ground clearance is usually enough to check most things.
Glad to be back!
Re: Newbie question
I just want to check that the car is structurally OK... not that I would really know what I was looking for. I know (you can see from some of my previous posts) that I will need to do the bottoms and maybe bottom quarter panels of drivers doors.
I need to redo the car seats, and the paintwork is crappy - but as its a car I want to play around with that bit doesn't bother me. I want to mend bits but more importantly be able to use the car, not garage it up forever more and only bring it out to polish.
So its more about me learning about what is OK, what might need doing longer term, and what I could do shorter term to keep the car on the round and in workable condition (if that makes sense).
I need to redo the car seats, and the paintwork is crappy - but as its a car I want to play around with that bit doesn't bother me. I want to mend bits but more importantly be able to use the car, not garage it up forever more and only bring it out to polish.
So its more about me learning about what is OK, what might need doing longer term, and what I could do shorter term to keep the car on the round and in workable condition (if that makes sense).
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- Minor Maniac
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Re: Newbie question
Ramps are fine for inspecting the underneath.
Depending on the surface they are put on you may find that they need anchoring in some way or they may try and escape as the car goes up them.
Depending on the surface they are put on you may find that they need anchoring in some way or they may try and escape as the car goes up them.
"Once you break something you will see how it was put together"
Re: Newbie question
Something my railway sleepers will come in handy for I suspect
Re: Newbie question
Ramps can be tricky to use - so make sure they are well anchored - and someone to guide you as you drive on to them - not always easy if the ramps 'skid' away. The rear axle stands are usually placed under the axle (surprisingly..) unless you need the axle dangling - in which case it's not so easy because there is no clearly defined 'chassis leg' at the rear of the car. Sometimes a thick plank (or sleeper - but HEAVY...) can be placed across the car (may need to remove prop shaft...) to support the car while you work on the axle. As mentioned above - the original jack points are NEVER EVER to be used. You really need two trolley jacks to make life 'easy' when working under a car - and your stands - and any spare wheels etc also shoved under as an extra safety measure. Lots of this has already been mentioned of course! Some buy a proper 4 post (or 2 post) lift - or dig a pit!



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- Minor Fan
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Re: Newbie question
I rent a garage on a farm that has a deep but rather short pit. I was servicing my modern and parked well towards the front of the pit and then lowered myself down just in front of the bumper. On deciding I needed a different spanner I attempted to pull myself up between the car/ front of pit but couldn't get up. At first it seemed funny, then after several attempts I had no strength left and there was nobody nearby and my phone was in the car. After quite some time I managed to scramble out and realised how silly I had been. The reason for this ramble is to support MOGBOB's suggestion of having at hand some method of calling for help, a mobile or whistle or whatever!
John
John
Bertie.
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- Minor Legend
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Re: Newbie question
Do you have a link for those? They look jolly useful.I got myself a set of these![]()
[frame][/frame]
Not particularly cheap but very useful
panky
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Best wishes,
mike.
1954 Series 2: 4 door: "Sally" -- Back on the ground with (slave) wheels, now being sprayed by me, slowly......
1970 Triumph Herald 1200: "Hetty" -- Driven back from Llangollen in Wales (twice.....)
1952 Morris Minor MM highlight with sidevalve engine still fitted, wants work, so joins the queue for now......
1970 Triumph Herald 1200: "Hetty" -- Driven back from Llangollen in Wales (twice.....)
1952 Morris Minor MM highlight with sidevalve engine still fitted, wants work, so joins the queue for now......
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- Minor Legend
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Re: Newbie question
Nice ramps were they expensive and what is the load limit
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- Minor Legend
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Re: Newbie question
Here is a set, http://www.cjautos.eu/product_p/cr02.htm
Richard
Opinions are like people,everyone can be different.
Opinions are like people,everyone can be different.