Morris Minor Owners Club

At long last I have got round to applying grease as specified in the manuals etc. I had a bit of a delay as the new grease gun I bought turned out to be faulty. many thanks to Sealey for sending me a no quibble replacement 11 months after I bought it.

The new gun works fine. Following the manual instructions I applied the recommended number of pumps at each specified grease nipple.

The first one done was the top trunnion RHS/drivers side. Despite 20-30 pumps and a number of disconnections and reconnections no grease leaked out from the nipple or trunnion. Bottom one and others leaked nicely out of joints or beneath the nipple to show they were fully greased.

The RHS kingpin was replaced when I got the car and was greased by the mechanic which I saw at the time.

I have never used a grease gun till now so do not know what to do. Should I keep pumping grease in until it comes out or will I do damage? Car is a lot quieter this morning on the commute with no clanks or clunks.

Gave the required 4 strokes to the grease points approaching the rear wheels. No overspill there either - could they be short of grease and need more?

Gave the required 4 strokes to the grease points approaching the rear wheels. No overspill there either - could they be short of grease and need more?

??
Really not sure as to where you mean with those!
At the rear, there is back end of prop (UJ) and handbrake cables...


as regards how long to keep pumping on the grease gun ... When clean grease is coming back out as fast as you put it in, that's usually enough!
Dont foget to wipe away the greae discharge - however rather than just bin it, I would recommend to smear it on nearby bolts / joints / pipes etc.. Keept it away from brake flexi pipes but metal brake pipes wont corrode if they have a nice coating of grease. ;-)

When you grease the front trunnions put a jack under the bottom suspension arm to take the torsion bar load off the trunnion threads. That allows the grease to work right through the threads.

depending on how long it was since the last greasing, the grease might have hardened in either the nipple or the threads, and simply not be allowing fresh grease in. It's a simple matter to unscrew the nipple and check that, when fitted in the gun, grease comes out of the "inside".

I too am puzzled by the grease points mentioned at the rear axle... As Ray points out - prop shaft and handbrake cables only in that area - which right enough adds up to 4! The cables - are long so it may take a wee while for grease to appear at each end. And I agree - NEVER waste the grease - cover all bolt ends/nuts and particularly at the handbrake mechanism at each rear hub = plenty of grease where the inner emerges from the outer - and the inner connects to the cylinder lever.

My spare grease gets smeared on the tow ball. I hope that you did not mistake the brake bleed nipples for grease nipples

Hi guys

Apologies for causing confusion - I did indeed mean the handbrake cables at the rear and not the bleed nipples on the rear brakes. Only had the car 12 months so no idea as to grease history. Fluid levels in dampers and gearbox etc all good so likelyhood is the grease points were done.

I will certainly carry out simmitc's suggestion on the RHS top trunnion and philthehill's idea weekend after next (wedding this weekend).

Bmcecosse - should I just keep pumping grease into the handbrake cables then unti it comes out - which is where by the way - at the brake end or around the grease nipple?

Got propshaft to do and one (can't remember) under the passenger floor as ran out of time but pleased with progress so far.

Thanks for the advice all - certainly wont wast any grease - tis expensive stuff over here!

Grease should come out both ends of the brake cables.. Under passenger floor ???

tis expensive stuff over here!

Where is "over here"?

Isle of Mann I think! Can't see why that would make grease expensive....

A lot of components are "Sealed for Life" so are not fitted with grease nipples, particularly handbrake cables and track rod ends

The grease nipple under the passenger floor will be the steering rack. The book says use EP90 oil, not grease, but there are many who say that grease is better. You pays you money and you takes your choice. If you use oil. it can be easier to unscrew the nipple and use an oil can to drip the oil in. A grease gun can be filled with oil, but many leak quite badly.

I never trust "sealed for life" as it seems that the maker's idea of a lifetime is not the same as mine.

I'm not aware of sealed brake cables or TREs for a Minor..... Grease them! Good call on the steering rack nipple - grease doesn't run away and hide in the boots! Put the rack full lock one way - add 6 shots of grease - then full lock the other way - add 6 shots grease. Job done !

Something else you have learned today Roy, I have a handbrake cable and small size TRE on my Series MM without grease nipples. I also have sealed front wheel bearings but that is just an experiment to see if I can remove the drums and take the brakes apart withut getting covered in grease

Retrograde steps then - the cable at least should be greased - who sells a 'sealed' one? I am aware of non greasable TREs for moderns of course - but I would have expected nipples on Minor ones !

Will a grease gun click onto the steering rack nipple ?, that's the one point I have not lubricated as I don't have an oil gun, and was going to be a question I posted on here.

Yes!!

Thanks for that.

Grease it is then as you suggest, I use ZX1 grease which I am a believer in, works well.

Turn the steering full lock one way - add 6 shots of grease - then full lock the other way - and a further 6 shots. The advantage of grease is that it doesn't run away and hide in the boots!

No! please don't use grease on the steering rack.

Please beware of bad advise on this forum. grease won't reach everywhere in the rack such as the rack ball joints, EP90 will and EP90 certainly does not run away and hide it sticks around and lubricates!

Easy enough to unbolt the nipple and add EP 90 using an oil gun.