Morris Minor Owners Club

i've had my 1958 morris for about 15 years, and a new 948 engine fitted about 10 years ago. up until now it has always run well, but now keeps cutting out when coming up to traffic lights, junctions, or whenever the clutch is depressed for any length of time. it always starts (pull start) first time after stalling, and occasionally has reasonably lengthy periods (mostly on extended runs) where the engine threatens to cut out in the above circumstances, but doesn't. around town, though, it's more or less 100 per cent of the time, and although i've had the mixture checked and corrected, and the carb cleaned, the problem won't go away. i think i read recently (it may even have been in the MMOC magazine) that this is problem best solved by fitting electronic ignition. Do members share that view, and whether yes or no, are there other things to explore as well to find out what's wrong? Plenty i imagine.

Has the ignition system been checked over?

no it hasn't. is this a big job?

get the electronic from accuspark on ebay buy the complete dizzy 25d or 45 is better
has dash pot on the carb got oil in

Agree with ignition system, check that the points gap is correct and that the distributor hasn't worked loose since this could affect the timing.

If this checks out, maybe the idle is set just a bit low or the carb has worked loose creating small air leaks.

I would not rush into making changes until the real cause has been established.

Does the engine 'stall' because it runs too slow with the clutch depressed, or does it just randomly cut out? What has the idle speed been set to? It could be that the clutch release carbon bearing needs changing and is dragging the motor when the clutch is depressed?

I can't see how it can be the ignition that only affects the motor when the clutch is depressed for any length of time.

Erwin

Absolutely NO need to go running off to electronic ignition..... Poor advice there.... Just sort out what you have - it's served you well up to now. But I agree with above comments - raise the idle speed slightly - and is there a good 1" 'free play' on the clutch pedal - if not, you are probably overthrowing the clutch -causing excessive drag on the engine, and wearing out the carbon thrust and the crank thrust washers!

was justb stating where to get them from
its buyers choice i had one on my mog for 3 years and very pleased no more messing with points a good cheap upgrade

The symptoms sound like as Roy says, a poorly adjusted clutch, check you have the correct adjustment first. Can you remember when the clutch was adjusted last?
There is no need to change to electronic ignition, just make sure you buy good quality ignition parts when needed and not the cheap rubbish.

now you've mentioned the clutch, i had to have a replacement carbon plate in it at the start of the summer - and i don't recall this problem occurring before that.
as for the ignition parts, maybe i should replace them with good quality new ones, one by one.
could anyone provide a list of the relevant ignition parts?

Check the clutch adjustment and adjust if needed then test drive.
I buy all my ignition parts from here. http://www.distributordoctor.com.

Don't start randomly changing parts to look for a fix, all that will happen is you may introduce new problems without solving the original issue.

well, the clutch doesn't seem to be the problem, at least not according to the local garage.
apparently that was fine, and they claimed to have sorted the cutting out issue by adjusting the fuel mixture.
it's about a 12 stop (at junctions, lights etc) trip home, and it was still ticking over at about six of them. then it started to threaten to cut out, and at the final few stops cut out just as before. all a bit frustrating.
if there are any further suggestions/advice to explore, it would be much appreciated.

To be clear - does it ONLY 'cut out' when you sit with your foot on the clutch pedal? (Which is something you should NEVER do anyway!) If you pop into neutral and glide up to the lights - is it ok then?

i agree, never ride the clutch. and i never (ok, rarely,,) do.
no it cuts out if i flick it into neutral when coasting towards a junction or a traffic light, and it cuts out also simply coming to a dead stop and taking the car out of gear.

Sounds carb related to me - maybe dash pot not moving as it should, causing it to flood at tick-over?

would that mean a new one? or can it be fixed?

I'm not saying it definitely is the problem, but if it is then it can be fixed by making sure the right grade of oil is in the damper and that there is a spring fitted.

Take the air filter off so you can see down the throat of the carb. Lift the piston with a screw driver/finger etc then release it so it falls back on its seat. It should drop smoothly. If not, remove the damper from the top of the dashpot and undo the 2 x screws that told it in place. Carefully remove the dashpot, spring and piston. See if the piston slides freely inside the dashpot and if not, then clean and re-check. Check it again once its all re-assembled and hopefully it might help....

mark the dash pot so you know the oriantation when putting it back

I think it just needs the idle speed lifted!

I would be tempted to check for a sticking float valve ... take the top of the float chamber off, push the pin on the float out then pull out the valve and check that it's not got a flat spot on it - it should be conical all the way down, there should be no 'shoulder' half-way down it.