Morris Minor Owners Club

Hello, I bought the kunifer pipe and flaring tool: http://puu.sh/azwuW.jpg, and practiced some flaring, but the cheap tool broke after 3rd try and the pin remained in the tube http://puu.sh/aztaI.jpg ...
Is there any good tool for reasonable price that I might use for that job? http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/AK5063-SEALEY ... 3a800186ff is that one ok, or will it end just like the other one?

The first tool you show is very similar to the one I have used for many years . and I don't understand 'pin stayed in the pipe'. Were you using it correctly? Kunifer is harder to work than Bundy and a drop of brake fluid on the pipe end as lubricant helps. I will say that the instructions that came with mine were incomprehensible, and so I ignore them completely and just follow common sense. Making a 'ball' end first, and then if a 'flare' is required doing the 2nd Op on that. I don't fancy the second one you show, at all. Can we see a picture of what has broken ? I would chase up the maker of the first kit for a replacement part..........

I have read some materials before attempting, such as http://www.stu-offroad.com/suspension/f ... l/ft-1.htm . http://www.stu-offroad.com/suspension/f ... l/ft-4.jpg it's this pin from adaptor part guy is holding broke off. The other adaptors look very soft as well (the 1/4 one is already bent, and it's straight from factory).

The Sealey one is superior and can also be used on the job so to speak.I also have one similar to your purchase and the jaws snapped(that was on copper pipe!).I think Roy maybe has a better made version(used as a model for the chinese c**p).

Maybe ! It's few years old now..

Hmmm - I don't see how that would snap off - it's just a locator and shouldn't be under any strain. Can you drill a small hole and fit a pin in it's place ? Maybe even a screw with long plain shank - and then cut the head off?

After having experienced poor results with cheap brake flaring tools I invested in a professional flaring tool from Frosts http://www.frost.co.uk/professional-bra ... -tool.html.
Not cheap but perfect results every time with Cunifer/Kunifer and made in Britain as well.
You may find a cheaper version but cheap tools are not always best in the long run.
I note that the Sealy flaring tool model no: AK5063 makes no mention of forming flares on Cunifer/Kunifer brake pipe just copper brake pipes unless it is contained in the small print. It also states for use on copper pipes in the Sealey 2013/2014 tool catalogue.
Sealey do a variety of flaring tools that may be of interest i.e. PFT08, PFT12 & PFT11 for example,
Frosts do a similar flaring tool to the Sealey flaring tool - model no: M250 but that does not state the materials it can be used on and that is £40.34 inc VAT.

And as we all know... 'copper' is not wise for brake pipes due to the risk of 'work hardening' and fracturing...

Ok, it's going to come soon. Where can I get the flexible brake hoses lines? Are they all the same? How much of them do I need? Thank you?

Any local Autoparts place will supply them - two for the front and one for the rear....

I've just done a copuple of dozen pipe flares this week using a 'Laser' flaring tool - looks similar to your one that broke, but it's better quality, and in a much nicer blue plastic case (I actually thought it was a Sealey item.. doh)

I did consider buying one of the professional jobbies, but ended up just borrowing a flare tool from a mate instead! sadly no instructions but I worked out the lengths eventually.

I've always been dubious of that type of flaring tool on ebay (the ones that look like your broken one) as they look cheap to me but the one borrowed works fine, but does leave some minor serrations on the pipe from where it clamps it.

Next time, I'll buy one for myself of that type, but not a cheap chinese one!

I ended up with Sealey tool. Works perfect.
How is this connector thing called http://puu.sh/aHDq0.jpg ? It came off the brake line connected to the flexible brake hose http://puu.sh/aHDmz.jpg
. I need a replacement, because it's seized. I'm quite shocked that flares on the brake line ends are worse than my first flare I done. Might be reason why there was a leak when pipe was pushed.

Thank you!

That is a 3/8" UNF fitting - note there area also 3/8" BSF fittings on the Minor. Don't mix them up! And the flexi is rubbed - you need a new one - it won't pass MOT.

Thank you, I have just replaced all flexi cables.
1.I have done couple of more of the flares:
One of best.
http://puu.sh/aIRy6.jpg

Is this one too much off center, or can be put on the car?
http://puu.sh/aIRBH.jpg
http://puu.sh/aIRDW.jpg

Finally, the car itself began to look better: http://puu.sh/aISFE.jpg
Thank you for help.

Sorry to send some bad news, but I really wouldn't recommend to re-use those pipe nuts!


If/when the pipe nut is overtightened, the end of the pipe nut flares out. If they were less deformed it wouldn't matter to re-use them but generally if the pipe nut is flared out at the end, don't put it on a new pipe.

Your nut on the 'good' flare shows this a lot, and really isn't good as it wont' squash the female flare onto the male cone nearly as well as a new nut. - the flare will only get clamped at the outside edge, and that's not how they were intended to work.
Don't get me wrong - it could work ok, but I just wouldn't recommend it!

Thank you, I have also realized that some flares should be female double / male single, even that there were wrong ones already put on vehicle! No wonder leakage... So now redone all piping, brand new nuts from bullmotif.

1. How much force do I need to put into screwing the pipes into sockets?
2. How do I insert the nut into master cylinder 3 way socket? http://puu.sh/aSRd3.png There is barely a space to put 1 finger in, and I don't really want to take it all apart...

Thank you!

Much easier with the M/C removed, gives you more space to work.
I do it by having the axle end disconnected and the steel bit that holds the banjo loose.
This should give enough movement to get the copper pipe started making sure that it isn't cross threaded.
Don't tighten up the pipe to the rear untill after you have tightened the banjo part.

there's 2 options for the pipe at rear of m/c T-piece

1st option (not so good) is to remove the gearbox tunnel cover, cut the floor back, removing a triangle piece to give more finger access, but still covered by the tunnel cover.

2nd option - disconnect the brake pire at rear axle flexi hose.
Remove m/c bolts, slide it back away from pedal actuator rod, then up and over the pedal rod and forwards towards the pedal.
This will give unlimited access to the rear T-piece for the rear pipe.
Refit by the same sequence in revers order, then add the side pipe (for front) on the T-piece.