Dampers and front suspension

[biomed32uk]

How I missed this one on Maisie I have no idea, thought i had been over it really well.

Noticed the other night that one of the bolts was missing from the NS front damper, the one at the bottom by the inner wing.

No problem thinks me, just more poor mechanics on the car of which I have found plenty, new bolt and we are away.

Wrong, the thread is non existent in the plate, read some other threads on here (no pun) and seems helicoiling is acceptable, used them before with success and they are not a bodge, where I worked used to assemble Deltic Diesel engines from new with them I think.

Its going to a swine to drill, and I think if I get a long series drill I can get it in there straight with the drill behind the headlamp where the inner wing is not in the way. Had a quick measure this morning.

Is there a torque setting or a setting procedure for the top trunnion/pin nut, where it beds down on the large washer and rubber bush, it was probably hand tight coming off but fortunately had the tab washer in place. Been a long while since I have worked on this set up, Marina in the mid 80's.

There does not seem to be many torque settings for the car that I can find.

[bmcecosse]

Good luck with that drilling...I suggest go for next size up rather than trying to get a helicoil in there.... I'm sure the through hole in the damper will take a little bit of drilling out. If not - you could use a stepped stud.

[don58van]

Is there a torque setting or a setting procedure for the top trunnion/pin nut, where it beds down on the large washer and rubber bush, it was probably hand tight coming off but fortunately had the tab washer in place. Been a long while since I have worked on this set up, Marina in the mid 80's.

From memory (so verification definitely needed) that nut isn't torqued down. A clearance needs to be provided.

Don

[philthehill]

Don
The clearance you mention relates to the top swivel/trunnion pin with threads (see wksp man Sect K4, figs K7/K8 for details).
There is no clearance required with the later plain bushes.
As regards the tightness of the nut - just do it up tight and then knock over the lock/tab washer.
Before fully tightening all the nuts/bolts on the front suspension lower the car to the ground; it is good practice to normalise the suspension by bouncing the front of the car and then fully tighten all of the nuts/bolts.

[biomed32uk]

Thanks for the hints, help and suggestions.

I am going to have a bash at a heli in there, as thats's close to original then. The odd thing is that the hole in the car seems to be offset from the damper, with the three bolts in the damper the bolt with the damaged thread hits the metal plate, and does not just push through.

I am assuming the thick piece of plate that's tapped is secured to the cross member and not floating around, does not seem to want to move.

I have a feeling that just doing the hole where it is now will result in a hole that's out of line, running a drill down the shock while bolted to the car to get it in line, but I have a feeling will result in an elongated hole.

That leaves having to build the sides of the hole up with some weld, then drilling it so I have a decent hole in the right place, whether I can get in there with stick welder is another question, and I am not the best of welders.

Think it needs to come off and have a good coat of looking at and thinking first before I do anything.

If it does all go bad plan b is I can probably just about feed a nut up behind it through the hole underneath, that'll be tricky but doable I reckon, but I would rather the correct thread in there. Watch this space on this one, not going to be an easy repair.

[Trickydicky]

I did read a post on here where a hole was cut in the chassis big enough to get a nut in. I would go down this route rather than helicoiling and use a nylock nut. I can't remember what size they are but you should be able to drill say 3 holes in line and grind/file them into a slot so you can get a ring spanner in to tighten it up properly.
At least then you will be assured of it not moving.

[bmcecosse]

If you slacken the other 3 bolts - the plate in the Xmember should move enough to line up the 4th hole.

[alexmcguffie]

If you want to go with larger diameter bolts, then it can be tapped 3/8 UNF and I believe the damper doesn't need drilling for clearance.

There is a hole under the crossmember to get access (above the steering rack) but then you would need longer bolts if you were to put a nylock on.

[bmcecosse]

One Q I have on all this - if I take out all 4 bots - does the tapped plate fall away from the holes - or is it 'contained' at least close to the holes? In the past I have always been careful to keep a bolt in place - even if not through the damper casing.

[aupickup]

on my car i took out all 4 bolts and the remained in place, actually it had no movement at all

[bmcecosse]

Thanks Dennis - BTW -I had a 'spam' message from you yesterday - which I deleted without opening.

[biomed32uk]

Had another look / ponder at it tonight, and did discover the hole above the steering rack, can just about feed contorted fingers up there yo have a feel round.

I am sure i can feel the remnants of the old bolt there, my theory is that someone has had a bash at drilling it out without clamping a guide block over the hole to stop the drill wandering off, which it has and skewed the hole off centre.

I think this is going to be a longer bolt and a nyloc nut on it, fortunately the damper don't have to come off very often and it will only be that one that has the swear box in use.

Trying to stick weld the sides up is going to be awkward, and tapping weld is not going to be easy.

Need to have a look at the weekend, no more the next few days as got the short straw of working away from home the rest of the week.

[katy]

Roy, FWIW, our '61 doesn't have a plate in there, it has individual nuts welded in place.

biomed32uk, after getting the hole line up sorted out you could weld a long tab onto a nut and push it up from under.

[les]

Pity you haven't got the wing off, you could then have slotted the inner wing and withdrawn the whole plate.

[bmcecosse]

I don't think you would need the wing off to do that??

[les]

Well I suppose if you stood on your head!

[biomed32uk]

Well spent the afternoon at it today, and its all good news.

Damper stripped right out of the way and you can see what you are looking at.

The hole where it had dropped down did not look too far off, and was smaller than the 8.3mm helicoiling size. There was two ways this was going to happen, lets give it a bash at helicoiling it, and if that does noes not happen then nut and bolt it is.

Piece of 1/2" plate, holes marked through for the three good bolts and drilled tight to size. Stripped hole mark and drilled at 8.3mm (helicoil tapping size).

Bolted to the car with the three good holes(short bolts purchased for the purpose), edge of the hole lines up with the extreme of the damaged hole, leaving metal to be removed where it will will bring it back on centre. The plate serves to stop the drill wandering off and ensuring everything will be spot on line.

Long series drill used and sorted the hole out. Tapped the hole and all looking good, cleaned the cutting oil out. Very tricky getting the tap to start and square, and it did run very slightly on the lean.

Coated a coil with loctite 648, this is the stuff that once it gets a hold it's not shifting ever again, and wound it in. Fitted a treat and left it for an hour or so for the loctite to cure. The bolt is ever so lightly on the run, but looked OK and that it would not cause issues.

Damper back in, all the holes lined up and everything's tightened down a treat, I am more than happy with the repair, it didn't in anyway feel bad, or like it was going to give out when tightening up. There is no torque specified and after all the other posts warning of hoying these up too tight and causing a repeat performance of this repair I opted for about 16ft/lb. Truth be told the thread in there is probably stronger than the original.

Glad it went this way, a nut would have done but it was going to be a real sod to get up there. Took the opportunity to fit the lower rebound rubbers which were missing on both sides, wondered what the three holes in the inner wings were for, and the job is done. Another off of the list.

[bmcecosse]

Well done - but 16 ft lbf is too low.....

[biomed32uk]

I really was not sure, and did some googling and not finding a spec.

Anyone with an idea of torque here, I have not bent the lock tabs over deliberately yet.

[les]

I run for years without bending the tabs over, allowed me to check and nip them up if needed. This year the mot guy noticed this and although wasn't too happy let it go. I'll have to bend them over next year! I've not seen a torque setting for the bolts but as they are long and more likely to twist I wouldn't want to go much tighter than you have done.