Morris Minor Owners Club

Hello, just recently my restoration project Morris lost brakes completely over the time. It leaked all brake fluid from somewhere, as master cylinder appears empty (I can see some plate with a hole, that is a bit greasy, but no signs of fluid). There were also some signs under the car. The brake pedal goes into floor with no effort. Should I replace all the brake cables now and bleed it immediately? Or can it wait until I finish with the bodywork?
Do I use those: http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Copper-Nickel ... 3a82558a37 ?
I thought that car will be safe in dry garage, but it seems to deteriorate anyway.
I try to run car once a while, and it have the new engine oil changed already.

Thank you!

You don't NEED to do the brakes now - but you may as well! And yes - Cupro-nickel (kunifer) brake piping is the best. The leak may be at a wheel cylinder -so take the drums off for inspection......

Hello, it was really difficult to remove the brake drums from the passenger side. The front cylinders appeared to be seized, but when I took them out, they seem to move normally. One of the front ones doesn't move well. The washers looked ok. The rear ones looks harder to figure out. http://puu.sh/a2aJg.jpg http://puu.sh/a2aLt.jpg http://puu.sh/a2aOf.jpg
Are there 2 of the pistons inside of the cylinder? One being pushed by handbrake, and another one under it pushed by brake fluid? If it's only one, than is it the case of cylinder opening too wide and leaking? The handbrake wasn't working well too. It was possible to roll car with handbrake engaged.

Yes - you've got it! There is an inner hydraulic piston which is almost certainly seized -and the outer mechanical piston. I would buy new rear cylinders - and overhaul the fronts with new seals. If the shoes have had oil on them they are beyond redemption...

Did you slacken off the adjusters before trying to remove the brake drums?
With something as important as brakes I suggest that you get a workshop manual and read it crefully

The adjusters didn't move the shoes at all, they were jammed open. I got the Haynes manual.

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/REAR-BRAKE-WH ... 1c3a5bac7b
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/MORRIS-MINOR- ... 27c9c4d30c
Are those Borg parts any good?
And will this seal set do the front cylinders? http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/MORRIS-MINOR- ... 4608de7576
I will also get this kunifer piping set, as old pipes are covered with some ugly bubbles, and doesn't look safe at all.
Thank you!

Yes to the seals - but I would want to buy a 'known make' if possible rather than these rather anonymous seals... And yes I think these rear cylinders will be fine.

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/FRONT-WHEEL-C ... 19d37c97f2 - how about those?

Also, are those correct sizes of piping?
(http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Copper-Nickel ... 3a82558a37)
Brake Piping 3/16" Cupro Nickel. Kunifer. Seamless

12 x 10mm x 1mm Male Ends, Long with Shoulder

12 x 10mm Female Ends

Thank you!

The pipe is correct - the fittings are NOT!! Minor uses 3/8" UNF and 3/8" BSF fittings. Don't put the wrong fitting in the wrong hole ! The difference in the threads is obvious - so take careful note when you take off the old pipes and I suggest replace them one by one to avoid confusion.

Then, how about using the old fittings and just changing that ugly piping? Fittings seems to be in fair condition. http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Cupro-Nickel- ... 51a4bdc3b3
Is this brovex seal allright? Thank you for help.

IF the old fittings come out ok they can certainly be re-used. Brovex seal ???

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/FRONT-WHEEL-C ... 19d37c97f2 yes, those.

Never heard of them - I would have hoped to see Lockheed/Girling -something like that. But I guess they are all gone now, These are probably as good as any others - and the price is right!