Morris Minor Owners Club

Hi,
A few years back I had a 1275 Midget/Sprite engine overhauled and fitted to my van.. It ran really well for ages until I had trouble with the engine running too hot..

My mechanic recommended fitting an electric fan. Like anything else, the suggestion raises all kinds of questions like

Which type of fan is best? Kenlowe look pretty good but are expensive - How big is best for the Morris Minor?? Are the kits the best option or can I buy a universal kit for classic cars? Would anyone recommend this kit on ebay for £171??

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/290784296773? ... 1436.l2649

Has anyone fitted an electric fan and had good results?

I have had a Kenlowe electric cooling fan on my Landrover and Lada Niva (no laughing and it was brilliant off road) and it was great; saved money as well due to not having the engine driving a multi-blade cooling fan and a quicker warm up. Much better all round:D
See http://www.burtonpower.com/parts-by-bra ... nlowe.html
Cheaper too; and has the variable max temp setting as well.
Free postage as well.
I have an electric cooling fan on my Minor but not set up for auto use. If the coolant temp rises I just switch on the fan until the temp goes down. Also got an electric water pump but that is another story.

I have a Spal 9" 'pusher' fan fitted to our 1380 - you can just see the label in the picture. Its only ~50mm thick so fits very snugly behind the grille.

It is controlled by a thermo switch in the radiator header tank and comes on in 2 situations. In slow moving/stopped traffic and after stopping the engine after use that gets it up to normal running temperature.

While running at any speed over about 30/40 mph, the airflow through the radiator keeps the engine at its correct temperature. That includes running in temperatures of up to 40°C in Italy a couple of years ago and on the M25 near Heathrow when England had its one and only time at 100°F! Lots of 'moderns' on the hard shoulder, slow moving traffic and the fan did its job very well.

When do you get your overheating? If its whilst driving at normal speeds the problem is not with the fan.

Unless you are presently running without any fan - the overheating is not going to be fixed by fitting an electric fan..... You need to sort out the reason for the over heat first - then by all means fit an electric fan to save noise/possibly save a little fuel (doubtful). So I suggest a full engine and radiator flush as a first step. Reverse flush the radiator for best result. I assume it; snot something simple like a loose fan belt.... May be an idea to run a compression check just in case the head gasket is starting to let go - although doubtful iof that would show on a test - worth doing anyway to establish general engine condition.

I put an extra blade on the existing one - so four rather than two. I thought this would be enough of an improvement.. But yeah a good question as to why is a re built engine over heating at all??
I found it hard to know when it was over heating.. I didn't notice it suddenly loose power, but I did notice the oil leaking out - from the hole where the dip stick is!

This is the email my mechanic sent me once he had stipped the engine down a but

Hi lee
Had a look at your van today and did a compression check and no1
was about 120psi and the othe 3 were over 220 psi very good. so head off
sump off and no1 piston out and the piston is burnt out between the top
and second ring and the piston has siezed in the bore and the bore has
sleight marks which will hone out. I can't remember wether you got the
pistons ore I did or did the the firm who bored it out supply them I
think you will have that invoice ,perhaps you could look that up sometime.
Cheers Alan.

The radiator was reconditioned too, but I'll suggest a flush..

A couple of thoughts:

The 1275 water pump is different to the 948/1098, is the right one fitted?

Is the bypass hose still fitted and is there a thermostat fitted?

220 psi is exceptional compression.....is the engine highly modified? Are they flat top pistons - would normally be dished on a standard 1275. Has the head been skimmed? And - has it been pinking/detonating (which would not be surprising at that compression) to account for the piston burning?

I don't know the answers to most of those questions. But i am glad you asked ask it helps me think broader about the problem. There was a thermostat fitted, but I don't know what type.. I'm sure the water pump was transfered off the 1098cc engine I had previously as it was almost new..The head would definatly have been skimmed... as I mentioned before, it had been re built... but including balancing of the flywheel etc, everything...at a place called Burwell, near Cambridge.. The engine raqn really well before this problem.. I mean, I could cruise at 80mph if i wanted - and no vibration, not even an engine stabilizer needed.. Not considered highly modified, but just properly enginered. I think the pistons are dished, but I will have to check..

I think I'll raise your points with my mechanic next time I speak to him.

The water pump is probably the 'short' impeller type if it came from a 1098 - should be 'long' impeller on a 1275...

Try the Mini Spares (large capacity/long impellor) water pump Pt No: GWP134 (with bypass) or GWP187 (without bypass).
Whilst unlikely - make sure that your water pump is not turning so fast as to create cavitation. If the vehicle is used at high speeds it is a good idea to fit the larger diameter (120mm or 4.75") water pump pulley off a 998cc 'A' plus to reduce the risk of cavitation.
For reference and to help you determine what pump you have already fitted - the small impellor sticks out 5/16" from the mounting face of the water pump and the large impellor sticks out 5/8" from the mounting face of the water pump.

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Earlier we were told it ran fine - and only recently has this overheating appeared. So I doubt it's the water pump, unless it has failed/rotted away - something like that.