Which electric drill for general restoration use.

[bluegrass]

I'm looking to buy an electric drill for general Morris restoration use. The battery one i have is rubbish. I will be using it for wire brushing etc. Any recommendations much appreciated.

[les]

Drills are not designed for side thrust, so if you're wire brushing an angle grinder with wire attachment would be better. If you still prefer using a drill, the more you pay the longer one will last. (before the h&s brigade jump in, wear goggles with the grinder!)

[bluegrass]

Ok, thanks. I have just started using a grinder with wire wheel, but its hard getting in to tighter areas. It may be i can find a better wheel that allows greater access.

[les]

One of the best buys I have ever made for restoration work is a Black & Decker powerfile, I can't imagine being without now!

[bluegrass]

Yes, that sander looks ideal. I think I'll get one ..I also like the idea of this as a possible long term solution for a multitude of jobs:
Eastwood Master Blaster-Dual Blaster

I just need to get a decent compressor to power it.

[philthehill]

As regards electric drills the old Black and Decker drills are the best (the metal bodied ones are even better) and will take quite a lot of side thrust. Cheap and cheerful at car boot sales and on 'e' bay.

[bluegrass]

Perfect, thanks, I'll look out for one.

[chesney]

My trusty DeWalt drill has lasted several hard years of abuse (getting on 14 years old now) and still tackles all jobs thrown at it. Needed a new battery pack last year but these are cheap on eBay...

[chuffit]

I second the DeWalt battery drill had mine about ten years still holds charge perfectly its taken loads of abuse

[philthehill]

To me a De-Walt drill (battery or mains) is a luxury item; I purchased my Black and Decker drills for between £2 and £8 and the £8 one came with a drill stand in excellent condition. In fact I have been using one of the drills (400H - H15 two speed) for mixing lime plaster this morning and it was well up to mixing the very solid to sticky stuff with a large paddle. They all get terribly abused and still give good service.

[philthehill]

Bought another Black and Decker 2 speed dill (DNJ62 /H1) this morning at the Twyford Waterworks http://www.twyfordwaterworks.co.uk open day for £10 (all in a good cause) and it looks and feels like new - fitted with a Jacobs 3/8" chuck and chuck key too - well chuffed

[mike.perry]

The most suitable drill depends on what functions you require, eg hammer action, for/rev, accelerator trigger, 1/2 in chuck, screwdriver action, reliability. Can't say that I am over impressed with my present B&D chuck lock system, press the button then force the chuck round one click and the drill bit still works loose. It is awkward lining up small bits straight in the cuck and the torque setting button has jammed

[philthehill]

You cannot beat a chuck (Jacobs chucks are the best) with a key which of course the older Black and Decker drills are fitted with.
Fitted a good Jacobs 1/2" keyed chuck to the new drill when I got home.
Whilst the modern Black and Decker have all the bells and whistles they are not a patch on the old ones and the modern ones I have had soon went in the bin.
As an aside I have and use all the time one of the original Black and Decker Work Mates (bought S/H for £2 several years ago). All aircraft quality aluminium frame/fittings and brilliant and no wear in the joints and which unlike the modern versions can be tightened up.

[alexmcguffie]

Quiz question.... Who designed the B&D Workmate and what is his connection to cars?

[philthehill]

Ron Hickman and his connection to cars was that he designed the Lotus Elan
If I remember correctly he initially had difficulty selling/marketing the work mate and he started production himself and then Black and Decker got interested and it all took off from there.
The one that I have is an early 1970s model which as far as I am concerned is the best; the part alloy/pressed metal framed ones are not too bad but the problem with the later all pressed metal frame is that the joints soon develop wear and there is nothing you can do about it other than replace the rivets with fitted bolts and that is not a fully satisfactory solution.
Best place to get an older work mate is either at the local tip sales which is where I got mine or at a house clearance warehouse where at one last week I got three Britool UNF ring spanners in new unused condition for just £2
Getting back to drills - I have recently been given a TAUCO pillar drill Ser No: 15 - 8081. Built like the proverbial b---k s--t
h---e and I have designs on converting it to a light milling machine. Any info on this drill would be gratefully received. Believed to have been made in the USA in 1948. Some info on the web but would appreciate knowing how the 1/2" chuck is held onto the quill before stripping and possible conversion (Now know - the Jacobs chuck fitted has a female No: I MT into the back of the chuck The male No: 1 MT is part of the quill ). I do not think that in comparison my Chinese made 16 speed with MT3 quill and 5/8" chuck (not a Jacobs yet I must add; but I do have a spare Jacobs 5/8" chuck in good condition on an MT2 taper and a MT2/MT3 adapter all ready to fit) will be in as good condition after 66 years of use.