Page 1 of 1

Negative camber

Posted: Sun May 18, 2014 6:20 pm
by rogerowen
Just noticed whilst looking back at the car parked that o/s front wheel is displaying some degree of negative camber (think that's what I mean) - bottom of wheel is more away from car than top of the wheel. Is this a sign of trouble? :(

Re: Negative camber

Posted: Sun May 18, 2014 6:32 pm
by ian.mcdougall
Jack up car with safety in mind, check if bearing has collapsed, damper loose, trunnions worn,lower arm pulling out of chassis leg. May be something simple .

Re: Negative camber

Posted: Mon May 19, 2014 8:44 am
by rogerowen
ian.mcdougall wrote:Jack up car with safety in mind, check if bearing has collapsed, damper loose, trunnions worn,lower arm pulling out of chassis leg. May be something simple .
Thanks for that. If it's trunnion wear - will that be apparent by wobbling the wheel about?

Re: Negative camber

Posted: Mon May 19, 2014 10:09 am
by philthehill
As regards the trunnion wear only by safely jacking up (and using an axle stand under the chassis rail) under the outer end of the lower suspension arm and therefore taking the weight off the torsion bar can you determine if there is wear in the trunnions. Get someone to grab hold of the top and bottom of the wheel and rock the wheel in a vertical plane whilst you look at the bottom trunnion and if there is wear it will be noticeable. Look for lack of grease or rust or even the lack of dirt seal. The top trunnions rarely wear to the degree of the bottom ones. If the seal is missing strip, clean the trunnions (if not worn out) and replace the seal and reassemble.
If the negative camber is so noticeable it means that there is something else wrong. Even excessive wear to the bottom trunnion will result in the collapse of the suspension before you get negative camber.
I suspect the problem lies in the area of the eye bolt - either the bushes have worn away and you are now wearing into the eye bolt metal or the chassis rail which the eye bolt is secured to is so corroded it is about to totally fail.
This is one of the areas that you need to be absolutely certain that all is well and is as it should be.
You do need to get it checked out urgently otherwise it may result in an accident.
Sorry to be so dramatic but it is better to be safe than sorry.
A picture posted on here of the eye bolt and its fixing to the chassis would be really helpful in giving a better diagnosis.

Re: Negative camber

Posted: Mon May 19, 2014 11:45 am
by rogerowen
philthehill wrote:As regards the trunnion wear only by safely jacking up (and using an axle stand under the chassis rail) under the outer end of the lower suspension arm and therefore taking the weight off the torsion bar can you determine if there is wear in the trunnions. Get someone to grab hold of the top and bottom of the wheel and rock the wheel in a vertical plane whilst you look at the bottom trunnion and if there is wear it will be noticeable. Look for lack of grease or rust or even the lack of dirt seal. The top trunnions rarely wear to the degree of the bottom ones. If the seal is missing strip, clean the trunnions (if not worn out) and replace the seal and reassemble.
If the negative camber is so noticeable it means that there is something else wrong. Even excessive wear to the bottom trunnion will result in the collapse of the suspension before you get negative camber.
I suspect the problem lies in the area of the eye bolt - either the bushes have worn away and you are now wearing into the eye bolt metal or the chassis rail which the eye bolt is secured to is so corroded it is about to totally fail.
This is one of the areas that you need to be absolutely certain that all is well and is as it should be.
You do need to get it checked out urgently otherwise it may result in an accident.
Sorry to be so dramatic but it is better to be safe than sorry.
A picture posted on here of the eye bolt and its fixing to the chassis would be really helpful in giving a better diagnosis.
Many thanks. There's a fair bit of movement at the top suspension bush (connects to shock absorber arm) once the weight is taken by a second jack lifting the outer part of the suspension. Iv'e got some MG Midget bushes - which might be the same size, but might need a new pin too. Thanks for the advice. :D

Re: Negative camber

Posted: Mon May 19, 2014 12:19 pm
by philthehill
Roger
I am glad that you have found some wear/movement. It is always worrying until you find the answer. But still check out the rest of the front suspension to make sure that all is well.
From memory I am pretty sure that the Midget top bush Pt No 88G274 has a metal insert and is different from the Minor top bush Pt No ACA5282.
As regards the top pin they are quite difficult to remove from the damper arm and you really need to use a press to remove it safely.
If you do need a new pin go for the pins with the UNF thread either end. They are so much better having been manufactured to a higher standard than the ones with the BSF thread. I have the later ones fitted to my Minor and would not go back to the BMC standard finish. I have some NOS BMC pins Pt No AAA3653 if you need an original one. PM me if you require a pin(s).
Phil

Re: Negative camber

Posted: Mon May 19, 2014 1:22 pm
by rogerowen
philthehill wrote:Roger
I am glad that you have found some wear/movement. It is always worrying until you find the answer. But still check out the rest of the front suspension to make sure that all is well.
From memory I am pretty sure that the Midget top bush Pt No 88G274 has a metal insert and is different from the Minor top bush Pt No ACA5282.
As regards the top pin they are quite difficult to remove from the damper arm and you really need to use a press to remove it safely.
If you do need a new pin go for the pins with the UNF thread either end. They are so much better having been manufactured to a higher standard than the ones with the BSF thread. I have the later ones fitted to my Minor and would not go back to the BMC standard finish. I have some NOS BMC pins Pt No AAA3653 if you need an original one. PM me if you require a pin(s).
Phil
Thanks Phil,
You're right, Midget ones too small. Thought I'd check the other side - top trunnion wear! Looks like I've got some work to do. :roll:

Re: Negative camber

Posted: Thu May 22, 2014 10:06 pm
by bmcecosse
The connection of top trunnion to damper arm is best fitted with polyurethane (or black nylon) bushes. These make a huge improvement to the suspension. DO NOT attempt to remove the pin from the damper arm - the bushes are easily changed without doing so. However I do fear this is not the reason for your -ve camber......

Re: Negative camber

Posted: Thu May 22, 2014 10:50 pm
by rogerowen
bmcecosse wrote:The connection of top trunnion to damper arm is best fitted with polyurethane (or black nylon) bushes. These make a huge improvement to the suspension. DO NOT attempt to remove the pin from the damper arm - the bushes are easily changed without doing so. However I do fear this is not the reason for your -ve camber......
You may be right! It suddenly re-occurs to me that the car got a massive O/S side swipe a year back when another car slid on the same patch of ice. Everything looks solid enough - but the after market anti-roll bar did pop out of the fixings on that side. :cry: