Morris Minor Owners Club

My woe continues. I don't mind really, though.

So today after repairing the brakes, I drove to work. And home again, after picking the missus up and doing a bit of shopping. 20 miles maybe.

I'm starting to have a lot of trouble with the clutch. I don't understand what slipping actually is I admit, but here are the issues:

1) The pedal moves a long way doing nothing, and then by the time I feel anything happen there's not much room left - so when I press it down, I'm really straining to get it flat to the floor for it to work properly. The biting point is quite low - not on the floor, but not so high. Does 'free play' mean how far you can press the pedal before something happens? >2" I'd say...

2) After pulling away and slowly releasing the clutch, the car sort of bucks. Jolts a bit. Then it's fine. This is occasional.

3) Reverse is difficult - although my gearbox is not standard, reverse is in a strange place (left/push down/forward). Even going into reverse from first is a bit tricky.

4) Sometimes it crunches, but not all the time - more often, it'll come out of gear easily and not go into gear, requiring a clutch-up-clutch down to get into gear - any gear, not just first.

5) It stalls a bit at the lights, especially if I've stopped with the clutch down, not yet taking it out of gear, and braked a lot (IE on ambers you can't quite make)

Any advice? Is it new clutch time perhaps? I'm just off now to go and have a quick look at the adjuster...

Slipping of the clutch is where the clutch material will not bite and slips even though gripped between the flywheel and clutch cover.
To determine if the clutch is slipping put on the handbrake, have the engine running at very fast idle, dip the clutch, engage 4th gear and let the clutch out slowly, if the engine does not stall and the drive is not taken up the clutch is slipping.
All of what you describe indicates a worn clutch or oil on the clutch plate. How long/mileage has the clutch assy been fitted? I take it that you have a Ford type 9 or similar gearbox fitted. Have you fitted a hydraulic clutch release mechanism or have you still got the mechanical release? Either way check that you have adequate clearance between the carbon release and the clutch cover.
As regards the stalling, I would suggest that your idle speed is to low. Set the idle revs so that the ignition warning light just goes out and flickers when the clutch is depressed.

Could be a matter of adjusting the actuator rod, but also check the bushes on the relay shaft - if they are badly worn, there may be excess play.

Also remove the rubber bung in the base of the gearbox bellhousing and peer in with a torch to check the condition of the release bearing; if it's worn down to the metal, it won't be pushing the clutch plate in enough.

You can replace the bearing by removing the engine a few inches on a trolley jack, reach into the bellhousing and replace it - I had to do this with my Traveller last summer.

its highly likely that it just need adjustment,that is if its still a mechanical linkage. we need to know, mechanical or is it now hydraulic answer will vary depending on what is fitted.

kennatt wrote:its highly likely that it just need adjustment,that is if its still a mechanical linkage. we need to know, mechanical or is it now hydraulic answer will vary depending on what is fitted.

Thanks, all. I've adjusted the linkage - I added a washer as it was already at the end of the thread. Mechanical, or at least it's how it is in the manual.

If the lever is at the end of the thread and the rest of the mechanical linkage is alright and you are having to add a washer to make it work that is a sure sign that the clutch is on its way out. Having the adjuster nut at the extreme end of the adjustment thread whether it be a Ford or BMC or other gearbox/clutch is not good.
Do you have any idea what type of clutch is fitted; is it a Ford or BMC/BL or is it a hybrid? You need to know so as to order the correct parts when the clutch finally gives up the ghost.
A picture of the clutch release mechanism would go some way to help identify how the clutch is actuated and possibly identify what clutch you have.

Bidz wrote:

kennatt wrote:its highly likely that it just need adjustment,that is if its still a mechanical linkage. we need to know, mechanical or is it now hydraulic answer will vary depending on what is fitted.

Thanks, all. I've adjusted the linkage - I added a washer as it was already at the end of the thread. Mechanical, or at least it's how it is in the manual.

As said above if the adjustment is at the end and the clutch actuating mechanism bushes are not worn out then you may need to replace the clutch.

On a non-standard gearbox (what IS it??) - then the rod mech may just not be ideally set-up, so don't be panicked into a new clutch yet. Add washers - or fit a shorter rod if necessary - you should have ~ 1" free play. The jolting etc could be clutch - or worn out/gone soft engine and/or gearbox mounts. Is there a 'steady bar' fitted? Don't ever sit with your foot on the clutch!!!!!!!!!!!!!

bmcecosse wrote:On a non-standard gearbox (what IS it??) - then the rod mech may just not be ideally set-up, so don't be panicked into a new clutch yet. Add washers - or fit a shorter rod if necessary - you should have ~ 1" free play. The jolting etc could be clutch - or worn out/gone soft engine and/or gearbox mounts. Is there a 'steady bar' fitted? Don't ever sit with your foot on the clutch!!!!!!!!!!!!!

I've added a washer, and it's generally a whole lot better. 130 mile run to Leicester this weekend, so will investigate more after - I have a rule of not tinkering before I intend to go anywhere in it, in case I break something...

Good rule....take a few spare washers along.......