Morris Minor Owners Club

Smelly brake shoes after going down the hill into the cove the other day, felt the front wheel in the car park and it was warm. Checked it again a few minutes later and it was red hot I had to pour water over it which steamed!
Got home fine no problem, so checked the front brake, one cylinder worked fine the other took a lot of brake pressure to get it to move. There are no leaks at all around the cylinder, if I push the piston out and clean it. it will probably start to leak?

I did wonder if the brake shoe springs were not strong enough to pull the piston back in. Is it worth getting a seal kit and cleaning it up or go for replacing the cylinder. I put new drums and shoes on the front about 6 months ago and the cylinders were new last mot (year ago)

Any ideas?
Cheers.

Have a look at the breather hole in the master cylinder filler cap. It can get blocked with crud, and the brakes tend to stick on when this happens.

Has the van been lying unused over winter? Best to remove the sticking piston, clean it and smear with 'red rubber grease' (inexpensive on ebay and fast delivery) before re-assembly. Do them all - rears too!

Thanks guys,
Ill try the easy one first and check the master cylinder. The van gets used every day, but mostly for short distances.

Had a look over the brake system, and cant find anything other than the slightly sticking front wheel cylinder. The vans off for its mot on Friday so I will get a brake readout for each wheel which will help. The rolling road at the garage wont replicate the mile long downhill and brake fade as the drums heat up.
Ive looked into disc brakes, but have read on the forum that a good working standard brake system should be all I need, so what do I need to do.
It had new front drums last year from Bullmotif (8 inch), brake shoes look good with plenty of meat left on them. Wheel cylinders have no leaks. It seams to be brake fade on the down hill that is caused by the drums getting hot, I put it in a low gear and try to pulse the breaks rather than keeping them on all the way down.
One thing that does cross my mind is tickover may be a bit fast so the engine isnt helping to brake?
Any suggestions.

I don't think it's worth messing with a repair kit, if the piston is sticking there is most likely some corrosion on it or the cylinder bore. Try to get a quality replacement, some of the stuff out there is not good!

Did you fit good quality brake shoes? there are again some very poor (rubbish) shoes available the linings of which are made from compressed donkey poo. I use and would recommend Mintex - a bit dearer but you are getting something close to the original friction material. The wrong lining material can result in early fade and/or poor efficiency

As always though each to his or her own.

Thanks for the reply,

Pretty sure I used Mintex shoes last time I replaced them and Lockheed cylinders, although is Lockheed still Uk?

Had the van tested today, just some bulbs out and the rear spring shackle rubber bushes need replacing. The brakes passed!
So shocked I forgot to get the readout figures from the rolling road, not sure what to do about the brake fade on the down hills dont want to mess with things if it all works.

Can't you run down the hill in 3rd with no throttle, and use brake now and then?

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Heres the hill to my local surf spot, it winds down for about a mile. Smelly brake by the time you reach the hairpin bend at the bottom of the hill.
This weekend a couple of modern cars have had handbrake failure due to the brakes overheating! The cars roll across the carpark towards the sea, a couple of years ago a Volvo flipped over the rail onto the beach. Ill post the photo when I find it.

As above -go down in low (probably second) gear - and just brake as and when required..... The general rule is that you go DOWN a hill in the same gear you use to go UP!

Ok a cool collection here with two Batmobiles the Hot Wheels version and Matchbox


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