Morris Minor Owners Club

Hi, sorry for asking a daft question but I'm in the process of removing the sump. I've released all the bolts and the sump drops down. The manual says to move the sump as far left to clear the oil pump and drop the sump down. Unfortunately this doesn't seem to be working. The sump is free of the engine but won't move far enough left. Do I need to remove the front fly wheel? Thanks in advance.

Lisa

A bit of wiggling and it should drop - mine did. No need to touch the crankshaft pulley. The trick is to get the sump back on without getting an oil drip.
Please PM me the details of your car

Thanks Mike, it dropped off eventually. I think it was caught up on some lock wire that was used to hold the pressure relief valve on the oil pump in place. It's a BMC gold replacement engine and I'm wondering if it was done when the engine was replaced. The problem I have now is trying to find a sump plug for it. Any ideas would be gratefully received.

Improved design brass engine/gearbox sump plugs available from me £12.50 +p&p
Why did you remove the sump?

Two reasons. The first being to get the remains of the original sump plug out...hopefully. But also she's been sat since 1972 and when I took the oil filter assembly off, it was completely filled with gunge. As it happens the sump has about an inch of the same stuff at the bottom as well. So it was probably worthwhile cleaning it all out. But just need to find the sump plug and gearbox plug (as I have a feeling that may well go the same way!). You say you have brass replacements for sale. Do you want me to pm you re ordering and paying for them?

Pm me with your requirements and address.

Hello,


'The trick is to get the sump back on without getting an oil drip'.'

You are completely right, I removed/replaced my sump, but now the oil is dripping....

So, I was wondering, what is the trick.....?


Michiel

Hello.
One of the tricks is NOT to cut the cork strip that you insert into the groove in the sump. This looks much too long, it isn't. Lay it into the groove with an equal length sticking up at each end. Then carefully position the sump and push up, the cork will actually then be pushed into the groove as you close the gap by pushing and doing up the bolts.
best of luck
Colin

OK, thans you for that information.... And yes, you are right, I did cut the corkstrip....so I start over again

Think about one important thing: never cut parts of gaskets, rubbers, or cork strips.
Always think, why does the manufacturer give more material as possible needed?
With a mass product, every piece of material is money, and with a mass product, without a cutting description, it should be okay what is in the package

Hi again
Also: the plate that resides in the sump must fit into little "teeth" or slots at one end. Don't ask how I know but make absolutely sure that it is located into the slots, not just resting onto them. If the location is not correct it makes a dreadful clanging noise that sounds like Hades is creating his worst within the engine. And you will have to remove the sump and fit the plate correctly. We actually took the engine out (again) to discover the error!!!
There is another well known member of this forum who made the same mistake within about two weeks of me doing it.
all the best
Colin

Thanks for that Colin, I could have done with that info last year after my engine had been re assembled (not by me) and I had to drop the sump. The baffle plate has a gouge in it where it was clobbered by no. 4 big end[frame][/frame][frame][/frame]

I must admit that I made exactly the same mistake

And didn't sound very nice when I started the engine the first time.....

Standard I turn the engine by hand, to check if no blocks are there, or is this not a mistake to detect on this way?