Morris Minor Owners Club

Hi all,
I hope to fix a front timing case oil leak, but cannot shift the crank nut, I have the rad and mask out so I can get at it, but it has so far defied every tool in the box. my friend tried yesterday with a 3/4 truck socket set without success!
Any ideas?
Regards,
Vic.

sometimes this does it
first take off the lead from the coil to stop the engine firing
knock the tab washer back
rest the spanner on the engine bay floor and give the engine a flick on the ignition key,
looking from the front on the right hand side

Thanks, but I tried that as well with no success. I have cut off the dog to get a big socket on. Will buy a new socket tomorrow half inch to and try with my air gun.
Vic.

It's a BOLT! I've never known the starter to fail... Take the plugs out - and set the spanner a couple of inch or so off the (timber protected) chassis rail - with a cloth dropped on top to stop it flying. Now press the starter button!

Always works for me. Its the quick and easy way usually....!

To do the job properly you need to jam the flywheel with a proper tool i.e. Sykes Pickavant flywheel locking tool Pt No 085105. Take out the starter and insert the locking tool and then undo the starter dog/crankshaft nut.
Any other way risks damage to the car or yourself.
One on 'e' bay at the moment item No: 22141891331. Currently at £7.00.
I have one of these flywheel locking tools and it is the bees knees. Works every time. Can be used on other engines as well.

Personally not keen on the spanner/starter method but each to their own. If your air impact gun doesn't do the trick then if you work on other vehicles as well get yourself a MAINS powered electric one - Machine Mart do one for reasonable money.
Those are real beasties and much more powerful that the average 1/2" drive air driven jobbies.

Ideally use an impact socket but a good quality one (especially a six point) will probably be ok but do wear eye protection if using a standard socket.

I use the electric impact driver on all sorts of vehicles including the legendary hard to release MGF/TF hub nuts. Also good for removing wheel nuts but rather too fierce for putting them back on!

Thanks guys, I did try the starter method, but mine has brake pipes from the servo across the front rail and I did not want to flatten them. I will let you know how I get on.
Vic.

Which is why you put a bit of timber down - to protect anything like that....

Another thought, somebody may have loctited the crank/ starter handle bolt in place. Heat it with a blow lamp will soften the loctite.

Also, use a long breaker bar if you now have a socket on the bolt.

It is alright having all the tools mentioned above but you still need to lock the engine to stop it turning unless of course you are going to use the starter motor/chassis leg method which personally I would not attempt or use.

Or put it in 4th gear and pull the handbrake on. Although given how tight it sounds....!

There's always the "rope in the spark plug hole" trick, but the you have to be ABSOLUTELY sure that the valves in that cylinder are closed and you and/or your friend are absolutely sure you know what you're doing.

Its off! Hooraylll I cut off the dog,bought a new socket the right size and still it defeated my air gun! So I hunted out a long bit of iron water pipe that fitted a long breaker bar and sat on the end! My investment in the local best bitter paid off and the bolt gave in.
Thanks for all the advice.
Vic.

Excellent!

Out of interest, how did you lock the crank/flywheel?